I’ve wanted to write about the ups and downs of Jewish life in Ford County for some time now. Recent events have prompted me to get my facts in order. Tracking settlers in the Lasker Colony is difficult for several reasons, so this account is far from complete.
The Am Olam “Eternal People” movement was founded in Odessa in 1881 to promote communal agricultural colonies in the United States. Jewish immigrants fleeing the pogroms settled at Lasker Colony (named after Prussian statesman Eduard Lasker) south of present-day Kingsdown in 1885.
George Inman applied for the Lasker Post Office around May of 1885 and claimed it would serve 300 patrons. Some information was missing and the form was returned for more information that September. The post office, located on the northwest quarter of Section 32, T29S, R22W, was finally approved on July 1, 1886. Unfortunately, the diagram on the back of the form wasn’t completed so its exact placement is unknown.
It doesn’t appear that a townsite was ever platted but the Lasker Colony was located south of Kingsdown near the mail route from Dodge City to Camp Supply. It stretched from just south of current Highway 54 down into Clark County and encompassed about nine square miles. Each family settled on a quarter section.
Because they were somewhat late to the homesteading scene, the Am Olam settlers were forced to prove claims on land that was remote and lacking natural resources. The railroad hadn’t yet arrived in Kingsdown or Ashland so supplies had to travel long distances by wagon. As a result, most settlers lived in sod houses.
Primitive conditions didn’t stop them from building a library. Moses Livshitz (alternatively Lifshitz) was library secretary in March of 1886 and the community was growing.
The Dodge City Times, March 18, 1886
Moses Kluber and Sophia Bespalov were married in Lasker in July of 1886.
The Boomer, (Ford City, Kan.), July 16, 1886
Jacob Borovik and Moses Wishnievsky sold potatoes at the One Price Store.
The Boomer, October 8, 1886
The winter of 1886 was absolutely brutal. Livestock losses due to the severe blizzards were immense. Imagine those straight-line Kansas winds without shelter belts. Lasker made it through and continued to thrive.
This excerpt of a column written by Michael Heilprin documented the status of Lasker and other colonies in Kansas.
The Jewish Free Press (St. Louis), April 8, 1887
The Jewish Free Press (St. Louis), April 8, 1887
Unfortunately, Lasker was devastated by a prairie fire later that month and the settlers again suffered heavy losses. 1887 was also the beginning of a long drought.
The Jewish Free Press, April 29, 1887
The Lasker Post Office was discontinued on October 27, 1887.
The Topeka Daily Capital, November 1, 1887
The Bloom newspaper reported a school was being built in Lasker in September of 1888, but I haven’t been able to locate any additional information. This was the last newspaper reference I found for Lasker, Kansas.
The Weekly Telegram, (Bloom, Kan.), September 13, 1888
Unfortunately, many of the Am Olam were from urban and intellectual backgrounds without agricultural experience. The weather in Kansas has been known to get the best of even the most experienced farmer. As losses mounted and crops failed, some settlers relocated to other parts of Kansas, while others returned to the East Coast of the United States to resume their earlier professions. That the Lasker Colony survived as long as it did is a testament to the intense determination of the Jewish settlers.
For more information about early Jewish settlements in Kansas, I highly recommend Sod Jerusalems: Jewish Agricultural Communities in Frontier Kansas by Lloyd David Harris. This book is available to read at no charge on KanColl. Donald M Douglas also published a paper called “Forgotten Zions: Jewish Agricultural Colonies in the 1880s” that is quite good.
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Northeast Corner of First Avenue and Wyatt Earp Boulevard
I look at the Osage Building a lot, mostly while waiting for Sherman to consider the logistics of pigeon murder. There are so many details that it’s difficult to make sense of them. And if you’re obsessed with symmetry, it takes a minute to find it. But this building is beautiful. It’s also relatively young.
The 1884 Sanborn Fire Insurance Map shows a frame dwelling at what was then 818 First Street. A lot changed in three years and the 1887 Sanborn shows a two-story brick building with two storefronts at 727-728 First Avenue.
Between 1887 and 1905, this building saw rapid turnover. It housed a drug store, a printer, a tailor, an insurance office, and a grocery. The building was also renumbered again to 725-726 First Avenue. A complete remodel by Dr. Charles A Milton was finished in January of 1906. The medical office shared the second floor with a rooming house called the Annex, which was established for Fred Harvey Hotel overflow.
F. A. Etrick’s print shop was in the basement during this time.
The Journal-Democrat, December 4, 1908
The Midland Water, Light and Ice Co. also established an office in the space at the newly renumbered 502 First Avenue.
The Dodge City Kansas Journal, August 27, 1909
The 1911 Sanborn shows the new street numbers. You can clearly see the only staircase was outside and made of wood.
In August of 1912, the Fred Harvey lease expired and the rooming house portion was leased to Jack G Abbott. Dr. Winfield O Thompson had been Dr. Milton’s partner but the practice was listed as Drs. Thompson and (W. F.) Pine by 1913.
This circa 1916 photo of the Chalk Beeson Theater shows a tiny sliver of the old building to the far right. There was just a very narrow passageway between the two structures and that’s where the staircase was located.
Photographer Unknown
A special hospital for influenza patients opened upstairs in the Milton Building on November 28, 1918.
Dodge City Daily Journal, November 28, 1918
P. Q. Hanlen’s tailoring and cleaning business moved into the old Midland spot in 1919.
The Dodge City Journal, July 3, 1919
Howell-Rhinehart Realty Company moved into the building in November of 1923. It was quite an event when the Southwest Motor Company moved to 502 First Avenue in May of 1924. They had to make ramps over the steps for cars to drive through the entrance.
A. L. Lyon then opened a tailor shop in the Milton Building in February of 1925.
The Southwest News, February 26, 1925
I’m not sure why he thought the old building needed to be demolished but George D Cochran formed the Osage Building Company on January 24, 1927 with $50,000 in capital stock.
Dodge City Daily Globe, January 20, 1927
Demolition of the Milton Building began in March of 1927.
Dodge City Daily Globe, March 1, 1927
The architectural firm Cochran selected was Mann and Company and the builder was Julian N Parham.
Dodge City Daily Globe, March 17, 1927
The Osage Building was turned over to the occupants in September of 1927 and the Dodge City Style Shoppe was one of the first businesses to open.
Dodge City Daily Globe, September 5, 1927
Marthe’s Beauty Shoppe was close behind.
The Dodge City Journal, September 15, 1927
The building’s unusual appearance was quite well received by locals.
Dodge City Daily Globe, October 3, 1927
The budget had nearly doubled to $90,000 but Dodge City had a stunner on a very busy corner.
The Dodge City Journal, October 27, 1927
The Candy Inn was a popular spot to shop for homemade candy.
The Dodge City Journal, November 17, 1927
They were able to expand their space onto the mezzanine in May of 1930.
Dodge City Daily Globe, May 16, 1930
Rorabaugh-Wileys Music Store leased the spot at 502 First by October of 1930.
The Ford Progress, October 10, 1930
The 1932 Sanborn was the first to show the Osage Building. There were three main storefronts along West Chestnut Street (116, 118, and 120) in addition to spaces at 500 and 502 First Avenue.
You will notice that the Osage Building was still not touching the Chalk Beeson Theater at that time and the stairs were still outside.
Police seized nine gallons of bootlegged liquor from an apartment in the Osage Building in October of 1933. Local boxer, Angus Snyder, was one of the officers involved in the raid.
Dodge City Daily Globe, October 23, 1933
By 1939, Charles H Nolind’s Nolind Music Co was located in the corner space at 120 W Chestnut Street. During World War II, driver’s licenses were issued in the music store.
Dodge City Daily Globe, June 25, 1943
Tillie’s Beauty Shop was located at 500 First Avenue in 1947 and Mi-Lady’s Shop opened in the Osage Building in 1949.
Dodge City Daily Globe, December 1, 1949
Perrill’s Smart Wear was located at 118 West Chestnut in the early 1950s.
Saint Mary of the Plains High School Annual, First Edition, 1953
Jack’s Cafe, operated by Curtis Jacks, occupied the corner space for the majority of the 1950s and ’60s.
Dodge City Daily Globe, Kansas Centennial Special Edition, July 1961
By 1980, Jack’s had been replaced by the Lariat Cafe and the Sport Kitt was next door at 118 W Wyatt Earp.
Courtney and La Mona Sherwood bought the Osage Building around 1985 and started Sherwood Realty in one of the store fronts.
Polk 1990 Dodge City Kansas City Directory
In 1990, all but two apartments were vacant and the building was for sale by 1993.
Dodge City Daily Globe, March 12, 1993
Although it can’t be the case, it seems like Golden House has been on that corner ever since. Honey Nails was next door to the east but I believe they have since moved.
The building looks pretty good for being more than 90 years old.
These photos weren’t taken on the same day but I wanted to include the shot from the north so you can see that the Osage Building and old Beeson Theater are clearly connected. The Google Maps Satellite View shows a narrow strip on the roof where that staircase was enclosed.
This isn’t a building I ever hear people talking about and I’m amazed anyone could overlook one of the most distinctive structures in all of Dodge City.
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At the risk of making this weird, I must admit I’m a bit obsessed with this building. The decorative accents are understated and it’s just a symmetrical little gem. I always assumed it was built by Albert B Reeves but I was wrong.
There wasn’t much going on at Lot 13 in the early days. The 1887 Sanborn Fire Insurance Map shows a tin shop in the middle of the 200 block of Walnut Street. The alley separating Lots 12 and 13 hadn’t yet been established.
That tin shop was vacant by 1892 and the frame building had disappeared by 1905. The 1918 Sanborn shows the street numbers had been standardized and the alley had been marked. Lot 13 was still vacant at that time.
Riley Reeves, whose given name was Darius Norris Reeves, previously had a butcher shop right around the corner at what was then 606 Second Avenue. Construction of the building at 210 Walnut Street was underway in September of 1925. Interestingly, Reeves never intended to occupy the building himself. It was always meant to be a rental property.
The Southwest News, September 3, 1925
The 1926 Sanborn was the first to show the current brick structure, which had a wooden awning at that time. Maddens Tailors occupied 210 Walnut for most of 1926. Richards Paint and Paper Company of Salina then leased the Reeves Building in December of that year.
Dodge City Daily Globe, December 9, 1926
Riley Reeves moved to Wichita not long after construction was completed. He owned property in Dodge for several years afterward but I’m not certain when the building was sold. Regardless, this building was a paint and wallpaper store for ages.
Photo courtesy Paul Kornechuk III
Rogers Paint Products, Inc. was formed in Kansas on May 29, 1935 as Detroit White Lead Works. This ad from 1947 shows how the company name was beginning its transition. The 1947 directory listed the business as Rogers Paint Products and it appears the Richards corporation was dissolved in the process.
Dodge City’s Diamond Jubilee Souvenir, 1947
You can see the Acme Paint sign in this parade photo from 1958. This was when the street name was changed from Walnut to Gunsmoke Street.
Photo courtesy Ford County Historical Society Studio de Lari Collection
I believe the longtime manager referenced in the July 1961 ad was Fred Swart.
Dodge City Daily Globe, Kansas Centennial Edition, July 1961
Rogers was later technically merged out of existence in March of 1968 in a deal with Acme Quality Paints from Michigan. Acme was a division of Sherwin Williams and in those days, Dodge had several paint stores. Sometime after 1973, our cute little building stopped being one of them.
By 1980, 210 Gunsmoke Street was home to Carousel Gift Shop. You’ll recall it was also the south entrance for Dodge City Office Equipment. After heavy snow damaged the roof of the building on Second Avenue, customers were directed to the Gunsmoke entrance.
Dodge City Daily Globe, December 10, 1992
The building went up for auction in 1995.
Dodge City Daily Globe, June 7, 1995
After it was sold, 210 Gunsmoke was home to a variety of businesses including a prominent attorney. I’ve been told he actually lived in the upstairs apartment for a while. It has also been an insurance agency, a nonprofit, and a bail bonds company.
Here are some photos I took a little over a year ago:
And these are from last week:
The owner of the Reeves Building has done quite a bit of work and it’s in really great shape. You can take a look at the upstairs apartment by checking out the Airbnb listing. If you see a strange person staring intently at the building while walking down Gunsmoke, don’t be alarmed…it’s just me.
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In a previous post, I talked about the beginning of the South Dodge Town Company and the fraudster, Perry Wilden. It didn’t take long for “South Dodge” to mean anything south of the Arkansas River. Crawford’s Addition, for example, is just south of the river and it was said to be in South Dodge. Same with the new Rock Island Depot. In this installment, I’ll be sticking to the original South Dodge townsite and the newer Park Addition.
Things were already starting to get blurry by 1887 when South Dodge was attached to Dodge City for school and legal purposes.
Ford County Republican, March 23, 1887
As mentioned previously, D. F. and Ella Owens purchased the South Dodge townsite and began marketing the lots.
The Dodge City Times, April 21, 1887
And this is where the Owens and Beeson families did their little real estate switcheroo.
The Dodge City Times, May 5, 1887
This 1887 map from the David Rumsey Map Collection shows the new Park Addition west of the original South Dodge site. The county road running east and west is now Beeson Road. You can click on the image to view the full map.
Chalk and Ida immediately petitioned to vacate the entire Park Addition. The home they purchased was located at the southeast corner of what is now Beeson Road and 14th Avenue and this would allow them to maintain the acreage as farmland.
Ford County Republican, June 8, 1887
There was a bit of a boom in South Dodge around this time but the newspapers reported people were waiting to build until the street railway was operational. It appears they were also waiting to pay their taxes.
Dodge City Weekly Democrat, July 16, 1887
By September of 1887, the street railway system hadn’t yet materialized but it hadn’t been forgotten.
The Daily Commonwealth (Topeka), September 7, 1887
This is the house the Owens family traded to my great-great grandparents. D. F. Owens was the Editor and Publisher of The Dodge City Times when these ads were running.
The Dodge City Times, November 24, 1887
Finally an explanation about the street railway company! It was doomed from the beginning.
The Dodge City Times, December 29, 1887
The Dodge City Times, December 29, 1887
The Dodge City Times, December 29, 1887
The Dodge City Times, December 29, 1887
In November of 1889, Chalk and Ida tried a second time to have the streets and alleyways of the Park Addition vacated. This petition was granted in January of 1890. A few months later, Ham Bell established a county poor house at the old Wilden farm.
Dodge City Democrat, April 12, 1890
The South Dodge Town Company still owned some lots in August of 1890.
The Dodge City Democrat, August 2, 1890
Although most town lots had been sold, there weren’t enough residents and businesses to meet the state requirements. The townsite of South Dodge was vacated by an Act of the Kansas Legislature in March of 1895.
The Advocate (Topeka, Kan.), March 27, 1895
Over time, Chalk bought up the parcels as property taxes became delinquent and lots went into foreclosure. Rather than being listed in South Dodge, they were considered part of Richland Township. This is how the map looked in 1905.
Standard Atlas of Ford County, Kansas, 1905-6
You can see that all of Section 2 was owned by Ida and Merritt Beeson by 1916.
Atlas and Plat Book of Ford County, Kansas, 1916
The 1932 Sanborn shows the southern city boundary was at Sycamore Street with a small part of Sunnyside included. Beeson Road was Highway 45 and it was in the county at that time.
You’ll also notice that Sunnyside no longer went diagonally to the southwest all the way to Beeson Road. By 1932, it had been reoriented to run straight south where the current curve is south of Market Street.
From a business standpoint, there wasn’t much to tell for many years because Merritt held onto the land after he inherited it from Ida. He gave a large chunk to Betty and she and Red had it subdivided.
The Chalk Beeson Addition was platted in 1947 but it was mostly residential. This addition was replatted several times to add streets and lots for commercial buildings.
The Ford County Subdivision map still says South Dodge but the designation has shifted to the northeast.
How does that translate to the current neighborhood? I marked the areas in red boxes on the Ford County GIS Map below. I may be off a bit on the dividing line between South Dodge and Park Addition but the outside boundaries are correct.
So if any of you remember before the South High Rise was built, the road from Merritt’s house went straight south across McArtor Road toward Red Miller’s house. That was the supply road that went south of town and THAT was Supply Avenue.
I remember hearing people talk about South Dodge becoming a separate municipality when I was a kid. Since the residents of South Dodge were treated like they weren’t part of Dodge City, they would just secede from the City and organize one of their own! Little did I know that we had already been there and done that.
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The most obvious question to ask about an old building is when it was constructed. Most of the time, the answer is pretty straightforward. In this case, it’s easier to inquire about a particular wall…or section of a wall. I usually start with the County website to get an idea and then move on to the Kansas Historical Society to narrow it down. Unfortunately, neither source has really nailed the details with regard to this particular structure.
The Ford County website says the Duckwall’s two-story building was constructed in 1929 with an open mezzanine and a storage shed out back was built in 1945. I mean, *something* could have been built in 1929 but it wasn’t the structure you see along Second Avenue.
KHS gets closer:
1915
Estimated
1936 and later alterations.
The commercial development of this block had begun by 1887, when a row of one-story commercial buildings lined 2nd Avenue. Between 1911 and 1918, new buildings were constructed here. This building, known as the Sitler buildings, was remodeled in 1916 for the Duckwall store, which opened here in 1916.
In November of 1885, Henry L Sitler began construction on a brick building at what was then technically 813-815 Second Avenue but colloquially known as Bridge Street. The timing was fortuitous for the proprietors of the Bee Hive, whose store burned down in early December.
The storefront north of the Bee Hive’s temporary quarters at 814 Second Avenue was home to I. C. Carroll’s grocery.
The Sun, June 17, 1886
Carroll’s grocery was replaced by The Missouri Grocery of Brigham and Tompkins in June of 1887. The 1887 Sanborn Fire Insurance Map shows a dime store had moved into the south storefront and the north end was occupied by a drugstore. You’ll notice the east end of this building didn’t yet extend into Lot 15.
By 1892, a dressmaker occupied the south storefront and the two spots to the north were both vacant. Mrs. Singerland opened a millinery store at 813 Second Avenue in March of 1897 and a broom factory opened one door north in May of 1898. The millinery store was replaced by a bicycle repair shop by 1899.
The 1905 Sanborn shows furniture and storage on the north end, a general clothing store at 814 Second Avenue, and the bicycle repair shop next door at 813. I’m harping on these maps because the building still hadn’t been extended eastward at this time.
The block was renumbered around 1909 and by then, what had become 608 Second Avenue housed Misner and Groody (electricians and plumbers.) That company gave way to Gibson Plumbing Company, followed by Dodge City Plumbing Company.
The Dodge City Kansas Journal, December 9, 1910
Julian’s Klose House, operated by Julian Hulpieu, was located at 610 Second Avenue.
Telephone Directory, The Dodge City Telephone Co., December, 1910
The north end of the building at 612 Second Avenue was occupied by the Dodge City Kansas Journal printing office.
The 1911 Sanborn shows both the old and new street numbers. You will notice the building still didn’t cover Lot 15. The Tea and Coffee Store had replaced Julian’s Klose House.
The Dodge City Globe, April 4, 1912
The Tea and Coffee Store was replaced by the Excelsior dealership of Hiram T Burr and Carl J Turner. That dealership became Dodge City Motorcycle Company.
The Dodge City Daily Globe, May 10, 1913
C. H. Archer bought the Excelsior dealership in March of 1914. By April, the building was reported to be unsafe…at least the west wall of the south storefront. It was another year before the City ordered the west wall of building to be reinforced.
The Dodge City Daily Globe, April 25, 1914
In 1915, Dodge City Motorcycle Company was operated by Roy Black and Red Alexander.
The Dodge City Daily Globe, March 9, 1915
At some point, the north room was separated into a different parcel…possibly around 1911 when the awning only covered the two southern storerooms. And while the old printing office was rebuilt, the Journal reported the Sitler Building was simply enlarged and upgraded with a new front.
Dodge City Kansas Journal, April 20, 1916
The expansion was needed because the Duckwall Brothers were coming to Dodge.
Dodge City Kansas Journal, April 24, 1916
Julian Parham’s company was hired to oversee the remodeling project, which would combine the two remaining storerooms into one space. The rear wall was also extended eastward into the aforementioned Lot 15.
Dodge City Daily Globe, August 31, 1916
In November of 1916, Duckwall signed a deal to buy out the stock at George Nason’s variety store effective January 1, 1917. Unfortunately, more work was required in the building. In December of 1916, Harper Sitler (Henry’s son) and Will Imel had to rebuild the wall between their two buildings because the City Engineer deemed it unsafe. The A. L. Duckwall 5 and 10¢ Store finally opened in February of 1917.
The 1918 Sanborn shows the variety store at 606-608 Second Avenue. The street numbers on this block are so frustrating because they changed when the buildings were remodeled. Or possibly when the wind shifted. Or someone made a typo. The way the store’s name appeared in advertising and directory listings changed several times as well.
Sou’Wester, 1921
The 1932 Sanborn shows a lot of new construction near the rear of the building.
According to the Kansas Historical Society, Duckwall’s bought 31 feet to the east to expand the store in 1936. The storefront and interior were remodeled at the same time.
This photo was taken during the 1950 Boot Hill Fiesta Parade.
Photo courtesy Ford County Historical Society Studio de Lari Collection
This later photo taken from First National Bank in the 1960s shows the two-story addition at the back of the building.
Photo courtesy Ford County Historical Society Studio de Lari Collection
The store was still advertised as Duckwall’s in the 1964 yearbook for St. Mary of the Plains College.
Campanile, 1964
That changed to Alco in 1966.
Campanile, 1966
And here’s the dreaded metal slipcover. So modern! Such progress!
Campanile, 1967
Anyway, Alco moved to their new store on the bypass in 1970 and Dodge City Office Equipment took their old spot in the Sitler Building.
Dodge City Daily Globe, December 23, 1970
This is how I remember the store.
Photo by Troy Robinson
Photo by Troy Robinson
I had completely forgotten they sold Apple products. My parents never would have allowed such an extravagant purchase.
Dodge City Daily Globe, May 22, 1992
Heavy snowfall in November of 1992 caused part of the roof to collapse.
Dodge City Daily Globe, November 28, 1992
The store reopened using the Reeves Building at 210 Gunsmoke Street as an entrance. The two buildings were connected via a door at the east end.
Dodge City Daily Globe, December 10, 1992
Dodge City Office Equipment’s last annual report was filed in March of 1993. Century Office Products of Dodge City bought the DCOE copier division in 1994.
Dodge City Daily Globe, June 3, 1994
A bankruptcy sale was conducted around the same time.
Dodge City Daily Globe, June 4, 1994
The Sitler and Reeves buildings went up for sale in June of 1995.
Dodge City Daily Globe, June 7, 1995
To the best of my knowledge, a commercial business hasn’t operated in this building since Dodge City Office Equipment. It is my understanding that the owner uses it for storage.
Here’s how the Sitler Building looks today:
What parts of the original structure remain? I have no idea. We know the west wall was rebuilt but we don’t know if any materials were reused. The old printing office was “rebuilt” meaning at least part of the north wall was presumably replaced. Then the south wall adjoining Imel’s building was rebuilt but again, it is unclear whether new materials were used. It would be interesting to see if any exposed bricks bearing Sitler’s name have been identified in the building. Sitler owned a brick plant around that time and it’s possible those bricks were used in this building.
Also, the Kansas Historical Society has a great publication about the Duckwall Company, which can be read here.
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The traffic around Dodge City’s Santa Fe Depot has waxed and waned over the past 150 years. There was a time when it was the center of activity. The AT&SF Railroad employed an incredible number of workers and they all needed places to stay. Not to mention the people traveling to Dodge by train. Hotel rooms and funds were limited so boarding houses sprang up in strategic locations around town.
Two such houses later became the Trail Inn Hotel. The 1899 Sanborn Fire Insurance Map shows an empty lot at the northeast corner of Avenue A and East Chestnut Street. Directly east of this lot was a frame dwelling at what was then 402 East Chestnut. This was before the staggered street numbering system and also before that little block of Avenue A became a driveway leading to a parking lot.
A house was built on the empty corner lot sometime between 1905 and 1909. Bridge gang foreman B. F. Mills lived there until about 1910, when it was bought by Charles and Mary Geitgey. The house next door was occupied by a round house worker named W. H. Stuhr.
The 1911 Sanborn shows frame dwellings at 200 and 202 East Chestnut Street. The block had been renumbered and both old and new street numbers are shown. By 1915, Mrs. Josie Wagner was operating a rooming house next door to the Geitgey family.
In April of 1917, the Geitgeys received approval to build a frame house costing $5,500. The article didn’t specify whether it was an addition or new construction but the 1918 Sanborn shows a larger plastered rooming house on the corner of Avenue A and East Chestnut Street. The new structure had approximately 20 rooms for boarders.
By 1920, Josie Wagner had relocated to 100 Military Avenue. Her former rooming house was demolished and the Geitgeys constructed a $17,000 addition on that lot in the spring and summer of that year.
The Dodge City Journal, February 26, 1920
Construction was delayed briefly over a tiny union dispute.
The Dodge City Journal, April 22, 1920
Many boarders at the Geitgey Rooming House were railroad workers who often stayed for years at a time. By the early 1920s, the name had been changed to Trail Inn and pretty much the entire Geitgey family pitched in to keep it running.
The Sou’Wester, 1924
The 1926 Sanborn shows the hotel had been expanded into the U-shaped building many of you will remember.
Mary Geitgey died in 1934 followed by Charles in 1938. The Trail Inn Hotel stayed in the Geitgey family and continued operations. A late 1930s Federal Writers Project piece by William Brown for the American Guide Series indicated the hotel had 48 outside guest rooms with free parking.
Photo by Frank Locke
In the mid-1950s, James “Bill” and Gertrude Goddard took over the Trail Inn Hotel. By 1960, it was advertised with 46 rooms which were semi-air conditioned. E. B. and Frances H Manning assumed management around 1962 and by 1967, the aging hotel was operated by Marlin and Ina Piper. Then the Urban Renewal project came along.
Garden City Telegram, September 11, 1969
This photo was taken just prior to demolition. It doesn’t appear to have been in terrible shape but I have never seen photos of the interior. Regardless, Wyatt Earp Boulevard needed to be widened so all of the structures along this stretch had to go.
Photo courtesy Marin Lix
Here’s how the corner looks today:
I’m not entirely certain when that block of Avenue A along with its connector, Minden Place, were vacated. You can still make out the footprint from above with the Google Maps satellite layer. Click on the image to view the full map.
It’s wild to compare the current street alignment to the old Sanborns. The old layout was definitely awkward with that sharp turn on Front Street right at the west end of the depot. There was no way US Highway 50 was going to run through town without it being fixed. So the argument was that Urban Renewal had to occur or else the highway designation would be assigned to the bypass north of town…which is what we have now anyway.
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When I was a kid, the Shangri-La Motel was kind of a rundown, junky place. It was difficult for me to imagine it being a respectable establishment with attractive landscaping and a restaurant where people held wedding rehearsal dinners. And what was the deal with that giant house on the hill behind the motel? I definitely would have remembered seeing that!
Morris Collar was one of the founders of Ford County in 1873. He was a successful merchant who was known for buying cheap and selling cheap.
Dodge City Messenger, July 2, 1874
The man was absolutely not trying to lose money.
Ford County Globe, January 29, 1878
Morris and Mary Collar began constructing a large home west of Dodge in late 1879. Work was finished in early 1880.
Ford County Globe, January 6, 1880
This plat map from May of 1886 shows Collar’s farm at the lower left. In those days, the north and south streets hadn’t yet been renamed to reflect the current numbered system.
This part of Dodge was really borderline rural into the mid-1920s. You can see on the 1926 Sanborn Fire Insurance Map it had been annexed by the City but there was no separate page with any mapped structures.
Finally, the 1932 Sanborn shows the Reeves Addition between 11th and 12th Avenues and the Reeves House in the middle. Remember all those houses that once lined Wyatt Earp?
Ernest and Velma Nickels bought all of Block 22 (except the house) from May Reeves around September of 1945. Albert had died in 1925 and May continued to live in the home along with some boarders.
Dodge City Daily Globe, September 24, 1945
Nickels built the Shangri La Motel in 1946. The first units were used beginning April 29. By June 1, 22 units were in service with two more to go and all were completed by the end of July. They planned to add air conditioning to all units once the equipment became available. As part of the property purchase, the exterior of the Reeves House was changed to complement the modern style of the motel.
Photographer Unknown
The Motel Service Station opened on the corner of 11th Avenue and West Chestnut in April of 1946.
To The Stars (Topeka, Kan.), August 1946
The restaurant building was not far behind with a similar color scheme.
To The Stars (Topeka, Kan.), August 1946
The Shangri La Motel Luncheonette opened in the Summer of 1947, managed by Mr. and Mrs. Sol Haar. The chef at that time was Jack Lee.
Dodge City Daily Globe, July 4, 1947
The selection was fantastic. Given the chance, I’d eat there today!
The Culinary Institute of America Menu Collection; Chapman S. Root Menu Collection
The Culinary Institute of America Menu Collection; Chapman S. Root Menu Collection
The Culinary Institute of America Menu Collection; Chapman S. Root Menu Collection
In the early days, the grounds were very neatly manicured.
The original motel sign was much simpler than the one in place when I was growing up.
Photographer Unknown
I feel like I’m beating a dead horse with these postcards but the difference between this snazzy place and the one from the 1980s is just very stark. The back read, “Within west city limits on Highway 50S. 24 Air-Conditioned Units, with heated garages. Rooms fully carpeted, Living Rooms and Baths separately Panelray heated, Fluorescent Lighted, Combination Shower and Tub Baths. Simmons Beauty Rests, Modern three room Eating House, specializing in nice steaks, Fried Chicken, and Sea Food Dinners, in the foreground. Built to serve the Traveling Public (no permanents). Paid reservations accepted and held until arrival of guests, unpaid reservations used after 6 P. M. if needed. Phone 695.”
May Reeves sold the house to Mr. and Mrs. Nickels in September of 1951.
Dodge City Daily Globe, September 5, 1951
Mr. and Mrs. J. B. Dressler leased and operated the service station, which had been renamed Shangri La Conoco by 1959. The motel and restaurant were still doing quite well.
Polk’s Dodge City (Ford County, Kansas) Directory 1959
I’ve read local lore suggesting the Shangri La Motel with the Reeves House in the background was the inspiration for the setting of the Bates Motel in the movie, Psycho.
Photographer Unknown
However, it is commonly believed the backdrop was inspired by Hopper’s painting House by the Railroad of a Victorian home in Haverstraw, New York.
Photo courtesy Kansas Heritage Center Photo Collection
This photo does look like the set of a horror movie, though.
Photo courtesy Kansas Heritage Center Photo Collection
In April of 1960, the entire property was purchased by Mr. and Mrs. Gerald Schroeder of Wichita. Judging by the fun font below, they were hip and with it.
Dodge City Daily Globe, Kansas Centennial Edition, July 1961
By 1962, the gas station had become a Rainbow Laundrette. And in 1967, disaster struck. The house had to go.
Dodge City Daily Globe, April 19, 1967
But why, you might ask. Because they were hip and with it and the house apparently was not.
Dodge City Daily Globe, May 22, 1967
I literally cannot even begin to process that answer. This photo was taken at the beginning of the process.
Photo courtesy Kansas Heritage Center Photo Collection
In this photo, you can see how close the sidewalk had gotten to the updated motel sign. Wyatt Earp Boulevard had been widened and it still had further to go. Since the signage evolved to include a dash in the name, I’ll do the same.
John Margolies Roadside America photograph archive (1972-2008), Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division.
One very unique feature of the Shangri-La was each room had an attached garage. This was rumored to have been extremely convenient for extramarital activities. Clearly, people weren’t as stealthy as they thought or I wouldn’t be telling you about it.
John Margolies Roadside America photograph archive (1972-2008), Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division.
At some point, the neon sign was replaced with cheap plastic and that fit nicely with the condition of the property.
Photographer Unknown
The motel was still open in July of 1984 but there was a lot of crime happening on the premises. The Globe dispatch records were filled with emergency reports from crime victims at that address. The motel went on the market but there were no takers. Get a load of those interest rates!
Dodge City Daily Globe, October 24, 1984
The property was relisted with Coldwell Banker for $300,000 in July of 1985 but there still wasn’t a deal to be made.
Photo by Troy Robinson
I’m not completely clear about what specific issues the City of Dodge City had with the facility. Because of the steep grade and number of stairs, I can only assume there were serious accessibility concerns, which could have been expensive to address. It could have been a combination of several factors. The Schroeders still owned the motel and after making an agreement with the City, the Shangri-La was demolished in early 1987.
Dodge City Daily Globe, January 27, 1987
The location is currently a KFC and you can see the majority of the lot was leveled with a tall retaining wall at the north end of the parking lot.
In its day, the Shangri-La property was posh and modern, not to mention unique! Of course, it’s a shame that it wasn’t maintained and preserved but it’s difficult to criticize the decision to demolish without knowing the details. I remember it being an absolute eyesore and was glad to see it go. In those days, I had no concept of what we were actually losing.
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Wilburn was a town about halfway between Dodge City and Meade on the Jones and Plummer Trail. In the early days, a daily stage operated by Cal Ferguson stopped at Wilburn, Crooked Creek, Pearlette, Fowler City, Belle Meade, Spring Lake, Meade Center, and Carthage with runs to Tascosa, Texas on Tuesdays and Saturdays.
Lewis P Horton and Charles P Brown applied for the Wilburn Post Office in March of 1885.
The Chicago, Nebraska, Kansas and Southwestern Railroad Company was formed in Dodge City on April 21, 1885. This mouthful was expected to pass through both Wilburn and Fowler. It went nowhere.
The Globe Live Stock Journal, May 12, 1885
A schoolhouse measuring 18′ x 24′ was under construction in June of 1885. Wilburn was “on the boom” as they said.
The Ford County, Meade Center and Southwestern Railway Company was formed on September 14, 1885. It also went nowhere.
The Dodge City Times, September 17, 1885
Businesses were popping up all over Wilburn. Due to its location on the stage line, it was a popular stopping point.
Fowler City Graphic, September 17, 1885
By October of 1885, Wilburn had about 25 houses with several more under construction. Teacher Willet S Brown began the school year in November. By December, the head count was reportedly 35 pupils. The school was already crowded and the town planned an expansion in 1886.
Although this article doesn’t mention the name of the company, the Dodge City and Neutral Strip Telegraph Company was officially formed on March 20, 1886. However, the company’s registration expired without any substantive progress.
The Dodge City Times, February 25, 1886
Mail was initially delivered to Wilburn weekly but by April of 1886, the town received mail from Dodge City thrice weekly. The town’s newspaper was up and running later that month.
Wilburn Argus, April 16, 1886
In the same issue, the Argus reported Wilburn was on the proposed route of the Chicago, Nebraska, Kansas and Southwestern Railroad from Red Cloud, Nebraska to “some point in Texas.” The line was supposed to go through Wilburn, Fowler, and Meade but counties would have to sell bonds to get it built.
I don’t want to get too far out in the weeds with this railroad stuff so let’s just say there were a ton of railroad companies formed that never built anything. The line in question ultimately became the Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific.
State of Kansas Business Entity Search Station
Despite being mentioned in the newspaper in April, the Wilburn Town Company was officially formed on October 25, 1886.
Wilburn Argus, April 16, 1886
Later that month, the railroad bond issue went up for a vote and it passed. An election was held for Wilburn Township officers on May 18, 1886.
The Dodge City Democrat, May 22, 1886
No dives or hell holes! Wilburn was proud of its lack of dram shops and gaming halls.
Wilburn Argus, June 25, 1886
County boundaries have changed over time and the Wilburn Cemetery is currently (just barely) in Meade County.
Wilburn Argus, August 20, 1886
The Wilburn School was in Joint District No. 1, which included parts of Ford and Meade Counties.
Wilburn Argus, August 27, 1886
The Argus had printed complaints about the Town Company failing to offer adequate incentives for settlers to obtain lots and build homes and businesses in Wilburn. A new town company was apparently formed in September of 1886 to address this deficiency and others. Spirits were high in December of 1886.
Wilburn Argus, December 9, 1886
Baptist and Methodist Episcopal services were held at the school. After the new schoolhouse was completed, the old building went up for sale on February 15, 1887. This is how Main Street looked around that time:
Hand-Book of Ford County, Kansas, 1887
The town’s layout was pretty straightforward.
The Official State Atlas of Kansas, 1887
On the county map, you can see the town of Wilburn was right on the Ford-Meade County line with the new boundaries.
The Official State Atlas of Kansas, 1887
The Argus reported on March 24, 1887 that THREE railroads were “reliably” coming to town: The main line of the D M & A would go to Wilburn and then branch off to the northwest and southwest, meaning a roundhouse and machine shops would be needed in Wilburn. AT & SF was to build a spur from Dodge to the coal fields in the Neutral Strip. The Rock Island was still a possibility since they planned to run their line north of their “present survey”. And the Chicago, Nebraska, Kansas and Northwestern was meant to arrive in Wilburn by the end of 1887 since the bonds had been approved by voters. In March of 1887, work was being done on that line 60 miles from Wilburn and the bonds stipulated completion by the end of year. The railroad prospects in Wilburn were being taken seriously, at least by some, in Dodge City.
The Dodge City Times, April 7, 1887
G. H. Berry operated one of two grocery stores in Wilburn.
Wilburn Argus, April 7, 1887
Shoppers could also find clothing bargains without leaving Wilburn.
Wilburn Argus, May 26, 1887
Townspeople got their hopes up in August of 1887 when the Rock Island right-of-way man had dinner at the Wilburn Hotel. A new marshal was in town that September.
Wilburn Argus, September 8, 1887
Wilburn merchants were covering all of the bases.
Wilburn Argus, September 22, 1887
There was a lot of bickering amongst the small newspapers in Kansas. Since they all subscribed to one another’s publications, they engaged in the pre-internet equivalent of subtweeting. The first item about anarchists hanging was a joke about local Union Labor Party leader, Carey Smith. He was harmless but his statements were considered quite inflammatory outside of Ford County. The second one, I’m not terribly sure about and prefer not to investigate.
The Wilburn Argus, November 10, 1887
With all the talk of Wilburn becoming a rail hub, the town didn’t even make the official map in 1887. Incidentally, The Chicago, Kansas and Nebraska Railway Company was merged out of existence in June of 1888.
Official Topographical Map of Kansas, 1887
The last issue of The Wilburn Argus was published on December 29, 1887.
The paper didn’t close because the town folded. Rather, J. H. Clawson was tired of the critics and delinquent subscriptions. I see his point but in their defense, the typesetting and print quality were atrocious during his tenure. The local pages were virtually unreadable.
The Wilburn Argus, December 29, 1887
1887 ended without a railroad in Wilburn. By January of 1888, residents were becoming concerned because the Rock Island unexpectedly bypassed the town.
The Minneola Era, January 26, 1888
In February, it was rumored that the Chicago, Burlington and Quincy Railroad would run through Wilburn.
The Dodge City Times, February 9, 1888
In the meantime, the hardware store began ordering goods shipped on the Rock Island to Minneola and then had them delivered to Wilburn via wagon. Also, the town finally had a permanent doctor. Dr. Lamb opened his office in a building which had previously been a harness shop.
By April of 1888, there was talk amongst some residents of moving to a different town on a railroad line.
Fowler City Graphic, April 14, 1888
Two weeks later, “Romeo” submitted a claim that the Omaha, Kansas and El Paso would be running in Wilburn by January of 1889 and town lot prices were already spiking. But it didn’t seem that property owners were convinced, judging by the lengthy delinquent tax list from August of 1888. You will notice the Town Company still owned the majority of the lots.
Ford County Republican, August 22, 1888
Railroad bonds were on the Ford County ballot again in a special election held on December 11, 1888. This time, voters approved bonds to build the Omaha, Dodge City and Southern Railway Company. This railroad was proposed to run between Dodge City and Galveston, Texas with stops in Wilburn, Fowler, and Meade Center.
The Bucklin Journal, December 13, 1888
Once again hopeful, town residents began work on a creamery. By February of 1889, they had stored 50 tons of ice in preparation for its operation. The Fowler and Wilburn Creamery Company planned to open a creamery in Fowler with a separator station in Wilburn. The first load of Fowler butter was made in July but I didn’t see anything further about a Wilburn facility.
One of the primary terms of the railroad bond election in 1888 was a requirement that it be built by January of 1890. That never happened and by July, discouraged people were leaving Wilburn. The oats didn’t do well and there were many livestock losses due to lightning. By September, the town was without a preacher and relied on visiting preachers from neighboring towns.
By February of 1891, the idea of the O. D. C. & S. Railway was officially put to rest in the Dodge papers. Most of the money was coming from European investors. Unfortunately, there was a bit of a sovereign debt crisis which had serious ripple effects in the States. In addition, Dodge and Hays had a dispute over money and the whole deal disintegrated.
The wheat crop of 1891 was extremely good. The problem was finding people to get it out of the fields. The delinquent tax list for the Town of Wilburn was insanely long in 1892. George Cochran shipped two houses to Enid, Oklahoma in December of 1893.
The Globe-Republican, December 15, 1893
Although there were several prosperous farming and ranching families in the township, Wilburn proper was barely hanging on in the Spring of 1894.
The Dodge City Democrat, April 14, 1894
The livery stable was dismantled and shipped to Council Grove in February of 1895. Nearly 40 properties in Wilburn were up for tax sale that March. The same month, the townsite of Wilburn was vacated by an Act of the Kansas Legislature.
The Advocate (Topeka, Kan.), March 27, 1895
Levi Martin was still operating the Wilburn Hotel in September of 1895 but he moved to Fowler the following year. Lewis Horton put his store up for sale in July of 1897. He resigned as Postmaster that August and was replaced by Joseph Van Riper. Horton relocated to West Plains, Missouri and later Elmwood, Nebraska.
The Globe-Republican, July 15, 1897
The post office, which claimed to serve about 200 people, moved to a spot across the road and about a quarter of a mile north of its original location in October of 1897.
The Wilburn Hotel building was moved to a site northeast of Meade in December of 1900.
Meade County News, December 20, 1900
This plat map from 1905 shows both the school and post office across the road from the original Wilburn townsite.
Standard Atlas of Ford County Kansas, 1905-6
The Van Riper family operated the Wilburn Post Office until August 31, 1911. It was moved to Fowler in September.
The Fowler Gazette, September 15, 1911
The 1916 plat map shows the post office was gone but the school was still in place.
Atlas and Plat Book of Ford County Kansas, 1916
The Wilburn School was still open in April of 1924. The schoolhouse was listed as a voting precinct for Wilburn Township in 1932 election but I’m not certain how long the school remained active.
Wilburn Township is still mostly farm and ranchland. The 2020 Census listed only 78 inhabitants. I was just out there and that seems low. It makes me wonder if people didn’t participate for political or ideological reasons.
So yes, I did take some photos but not of the actual Wilburn townsite. Some very nice people live there and they preferred not to have their home appear on the interwebs. But I did get photos of the 1897 Wilburn Post Office site as well as the site of the Wilburn School.
Looking to the northeast, the Wilburn Post Office was near the trees.
Looking south, the Wilburn School was on the left and the townsite was on the right.
Approximate location of the schoolhouse
These photos were taken at Wilburn Cemetery, which is currently in Meade County. Most graves originally had wooden markers, which deteriorated over time. As a result, very few graves are marked but this cemetery is well maintained and often visited.
The Crooked Creek was full of water when I visited. Everything was green and it was plain to see what drew settlers to this area. I even got to experience the old timers’ frustrations with the road running north of town, nearly getting stuck in the silt with no mud in sight. What they would have given for four-wheel drive!
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In my post about the College of Western Kansas, I covered the Presbyterian stewardship of the campus. This time, I’ll explain how the property passed to the Methodists and ultimately, the Catholics, who were finally able to operate a successful academy.
After Asa Soule died in January of 1890, his son, Wilson, was appointed temporary administrator of his estate. Things were suspended in a weird limbo until William W Munsell was appointed the official executor in February of 1891. There were all sorts of wild ideas about what to do with the campus buildings.
The Intermediate Sanitarium Association was formed on August 17, 1891. It was a nice idea but didn’t go anywhere.
The Dodge City Democrat, August 22, 1891
In 1892, Munsell made a tentative deal with the National Bichloride of Gold Company to turn the campus into an addiction treatment facility, which appears to have been based on the discredited Keeley Cure.
The Globe-Republican, May 23, 1892
The World’s Bichloride of Gold Institute Company was formed in Kansas on July 4, 1892 but it was registered in Herington rather than Dodge City. Instead, the dormitory was rented to attorney F. A. Mitchell in June of 1892. It may not have been the safest housing arrangement for a toddler.
The Globe-Republican, April 28, 1893
Soule College Association of the Methodist Episcopal Church was formed on October 23, 1893. Directors were Elbert H Vaughan, William W Munsell, Benjamin S Williams, Herbert Whitworth, and J. H. Crawford. Heirs Wilson Soule, Fannie Soule, and Marilla Soule deeded the college property over to the local Methodist Episcopal Church with the conditions that school start no later than September of 1894, that the name be Soule College, and that it maintain at least three professors each term.
The Globe-Republican, January 26, 1894
Throughout the spring and summer, preparations were made for Soule College to open by the September deadline.
The Globe-Republican, April 13, 1894
The Globe-Republican, April 13, 1894
The first term opened on September 4, 1894 with 23 students and a faculty of seven.
The Globe-Republican, September 7, 1894
The Globe-Republican, September 7, 1894
In those days, students could enter whenever they were ready rather than being forced to wait for the beginning of the next term. By the end of September, the student body had grown to more than 35.
The first commencement was held on May 29, 1895 with music furnished by Beeson’s Orchestra.
The Globe-Republican, May 31, 1895
The Globe-Republican, May 31, 1895
So this is interesting! Skip down to the reversion clause which stipulated the name be Soule College as long as the grantors lived. Wilson Soule was killed in a carriage accident in July of 1894 and his wife, Frances “Fannie” (Parkhurst) Soule, died of pneumonia in February of 1895. They were literally waiting for the last to die and Asa Soule’s widow, Marilla, refused to comply.
Western Methodist, (Wichita, Kan.) March 26, 1896
For the school year ending in June of 1896, Soule College reported 122 students and a faculty salary of $7,200. By comparison, Washburn College reported 214 students and a faculty salary of $13,575. The college operated on a shoestring budget from the very beginning. A Ladies Auxiliary was formed for fundraising and the school pledged they would not incur debt. But there were other troubles brewing.
The Topeka State Journal, December 21, 1896
Vaughan was accused of making “free silver” speeches during the election. The problem with that accusation was the pastor rule book contained no language about taking a political cause to the pulpit. Vaughan was acquitted in March of 1897 but the committee “condemned the indiscreet management of Soule College.” Vaughan kept his job but the pettiness continued.
Garden City Herald, March 27, 1897
The Soule College Aid Association was formed on April 26, 1897. Directors were M. W. Sutton, R. W. Evans, L. R. Miller, Dr. T. L. McCarty, J. H. Churchill, B. F. Milton, E. H. Madison, Emma T Vaughan, Jennie M Williams, Hallie N Hard, Esther L Crawford, Emma A Miller, S Emily Whitworth, Rebecca T Finley, and Estelle W Gilbert.
The college needed all the aid it could get and started losing instructors after the 1897-98 school year. Vaughan was constantly trying to cobble together funds to keep the school running.
The Southwest Methodist Episcopal Conference reversed course and began recognizing Soule College as a conference school in March of 1900. I believe this had something to do with Marilla Soule redoing the deed to remove the restrictions.
The community took up a collection for coal to heat the buildings in January of 1901. It was far from enough and the Conference closed Soule College in April of that year.
The Globe-Republican, April 11, 1901
Undeterred, Vaughan and Rev. Le Master took the faculty and students to the public school in Jetmore. The Holton Recorder reported in October of 1901 that Mrs. Farley and Miss Ella Barber would be teaching in Jetmore during the Winter term.
Meanwhile in Dodge City, the Catholics expressed interest in purchasing the campus as early as November of 1901. Bishop Hennessy later told a reporter the Wichita Diocese was very interested in buying Soule College at the time but had no means of maintaining it.
The Meade County News, November 28, 1901
It’s unclear what transpired over the winter months but by Spring of 1902, the Conference was advertising the school as being operational in Dodge City.
The Jacksonian, (Cimarron, Kan.), August 14, 1902
The rivalry between Soule College and Southwest College in Winfield was a bit spicy. Southwest was favored by the Methodists and apparently did everything by the book so they got the funding. The Soule trustees evidently refused to cede complete control to the Conference so funds were withheld.
The Collegian, (Winfield, Kan.) October, 1904
This old promo drawing, which was printed in newspapers all over the state, was still being used with the not-yet-erected dormitory in 1905.
Standard Atlas of Ford County Kansas 1905-6
Vaughan attempted to finish the buildings with the help of Andrew Carnegie.
By 1908, the campus had increased to 200 acres. Soule College reported having no debt and all lawsuits settled. The property was estimated to be worth $100,000 but the upper stories of the buildings still hadn’t been completed.
Soule College had been trying to gain recognition and funding from the Southwest Kansas Conference of the Methodist Episcopal Church for several years. After passing the hot potato from one committee to the next, things finally came to a head in April of 1909. The Conference washed their hands of Soule College and stated no ME church in Kansas should offer its pulpit for funding requests. They wanted the deed to the property and a big board of trustees with full control. I really think a lot of it stemmed from their conflict with Vaughan and them wanting to fire him. Because of the way things were set up, they had no authority to do so.
Haskell County Republican, April 9, 1909
The faculty was working without pay and there wasn’t enough money to maintain the buildings.
The Globe-Republican, May 19, 1910
In 1911, Dodge City offered the Soule College grounds for the new “state hospital for the insane.”
The Topeka State Journal, March 6, 1911
The situation continued to deteriorate into the beginning of 1912.
The Dodge City Globe, January 11, 1912
More information came to light about the structural damage.
The Dodge City Kansas Journal, January 19, 1912
The Dodge City Kansas Journal, January 19, 1912
The Dodge City Kansas Journal, January 19, 1912
The Dodge City Kansas Journal, January 19, 1912
The Dodge City Kansas Journal, January 19, 1912
The Dodge City Kansas Journal, January 19, 1912
I never found a logical explanation about the unused goods which had been donated by Montgomery Ward. Perhaps the few people trying to keep things going were just completely overwhelmed.
The Dodge City Globe, January 25, 1912
The Conference convened in March and decided to sell Soule College.
The Dodge City Kansas Journal, August 23, 1912
The Dodge City Kansas Journal, August 23, 1912
After the August 23 article was published, it was denied that a deal had been reached. The title to the property had never been properly addressed and it was unclear whether the Methodists could meet the terms requested by the Catholics. Everything was settled by September of 1912 and Bishop Hennessy exchanged $8,000 for the keys and a deed for the 40-acre plot on October 2. Reverend Vaughan moved out later that week and renovations in the dormitory building began the following week.
I should probably note the difference between “closed” and “practically closed” as it pertains to Soule College. Several articles claimed the college had been closed for several years but that was definitely not the case. Reverend Vaughan kept the school somewhat operational through what seemed to be sheer force of will. Many people claimed it was not a legitimate educational institution, as no proper instruction was being given, and I am unable to make an argument about that. But it is absolutely verifiable that the college had some staff and some students throughout the turbulent years of Methodist occupation.
The trustee sale was quite an event. The best piano brought $150 and the Methodist choir served FIFTY POUNDS of ham and fifteen pounds of coffee.
The Dodge City Globe, November 7, 1912
Work continued on the buildings throughout the Spring and Summer of 1913.
The Dodge City Daily Globe, April 23, 1913
The Dodge City Daily Globe, April 23, 1913
The Dodge City Daily Globe, April 23, 1913
The Dodge City Daily Globe, April 23, 1913
Soule College reopened as St. Mary of the Plains Academy on September 9, 1913. Only day students were accepted the first year because the campus was not ready for boarders. The dormitory building was temporarily used for classes while work continued in the main building. Equipment was shipped from a closed college at Abilene. A bus line was established from Dodge to the campus.
Once boarding began, only girls were admitted. A separate parochial school for boys was established at Sacred Heart.
The Catholic Advance, July 11, 1914
Light gray stucco was added to the brick exteriors in 1914 and electric lights were installed along with the cross atop the tower.
The dormitory was used as an emergency hospital during the influenza epidemic.
The Catholic Advance, January 25, 1919
The Catholic Advance, January 25, 1919
This is St. Mary of the Plains Academy’s graduating class of 1931.
The Catholic Advance, May 23, 1931
City water was piped to the school grounds in 1936, which made it easier for the landscaping to be revived.
Photographer Unknown
As you can see from this aerial photo, the campus layout strayed somewhat from the initial drawings.
Photo courtesy Paul Kornechuk III
The campus buildings were severely damaged by a tornado on May 10, 1942. Several photos of the campus before and after the tornado can be found here.
The Sisters of St. Joseph opened a high school at Mt. St. Mary’s Convent in Wichita to accommodate the displaced students. Collections were gathered to rebuild the school but construction would have to wait due to World War II building restrictions. Once building was allowed to resume, a new site was chosen for St. Mary of the Plains College east of Avenue A.
These photos taken from Hennessy Street looking north show the approximate location of the main entrancedesire path to Soule College. Hennessy Street is located roughly where the south edge of the old pond began. Give or take. (Location updated for clarity. I wasn’t thinking about the pillars at the very far south end of the drive.)
It was a wonderful idea to have a college in Dodge City to serve the rural population. Unfortunately, it was an idea far ahead of its time. The Catholics did a wonderful job with SMPC until that pesky truck driving school ruined everything. That, of course, is another story for another day.
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This famous Dodge City home was dismantled before I was born and I never made the connection between photos I had seen of the Sam Stubbs House and the large lot at the northwest corner of Fifth Avenue and Spruce Street. It wasn’t until I found this excerpt while reading up on William W Munsell that I began looking into a supposed arsonist.
Dodge City Daily Globe, November 22, 1916
Who tried to burn what now? Let’s rewind.
Nicholas B Klaine was a politician, judge, postmaster, and newspaper publisher. My great-grandmother had this photo in her collection. Klaine is the one with the beard.
Photographer Unknown
Anyway, Klaine (not an arsonist) built this home at the corner of Fifth and Spruce in 1885.
Hand-Book of Ford County, Kansas, 1887
Klaine sold the house to D. F. and Ella T Owens in October of 1887. You may recall that Mr. and Mrs. Owens previously traded properties with Chalk and Ida Beeson. D. F. Owens was a pastor at the Methodist Episcopal Church who also replaced Klaine at The Dodge City Times when the latter moved to Cimarron. It was kind of a strange sequence of events. Klaine sold both the house and the newspaper to Owens, who then sold the Times to Frank Akins just a couple weeks later. Akins decided the newspaper business wasn’t for him and sold it back to Owens in November of 1887.
Owens stayed on as Editor until the end of August or beginning of September 1888. He and Ella left for points east on September 7.
The Dodge City Times, September 13, 1888
While they were away from Dodge, their home was destroyed by fire.
The Dodge City Times, September 13, 1888
I cannot imagine Owens had anything to do with the fire, considering it was only partially insured.
Dodge City Democrat, September 15, 1888
In addition, Owens immediately began making plans to rebuild. Frank Weston of Weston and Trost designed a fourteen-room home using the original structure’s footprint.
The Dodge City Times, September 20, 1888
Winter obviously isn’t the best time to build so it was slow going for a while.
Ford County Republican, February 20, 1889
A long while!
The Dodge City Times, May 16, 1889
I really don’t know why they went to the trouble of rebuilding that magnificent house, only to rent it to someone else. Maybe it was the fallout from the colossal failure of South Dodge that I should finish writing about.
The Dodge City Times, September 19, 1889
Mrs. J. T. Metcalf operated a private boarding house in the giant home which appears to have been damaged by a frozen water pipe in January of 1890.
Dodge City Democrat, January 25, 1890
The Owens family relocated to Arkansas City and Mr. Owens was seriously injured in a hunting accident. His left arm was amputated above the wrist in February of 1890.
The Globe-Republican, April 16, 1890
Owens went “east” to have surgery on his arm in May of 1890 and the family settled in Kingman that June. The Metcalfs closed the boarding house at the end of August and moved back into their South Dodge home. William Munsell purchased the property in September of 1890 and renovations began immediately.
The Globe-Republican, September 17, 1890
A large veranda was constructed and ornamental details were added. You’ll notice the second-story porch to the right was originally open.
Photo courtesy Kansas Heritage Center Photo Collection
The house was ready by the first of October.
The Dodge City Democrat, October 4, 1890
The Munsell family moved to Evanston, Illinois in April of 1894 and rented the house to Albert and May Reeves in May of 1895.
The Dodge City Democrat, May 11, 1895
In January of 1898, the Reeves and Stubbs families traded residences. Sam and Dora Stubbs had been renting the Morris Collar residence, which many of you will remember as the big house behind the Shangri-La Motel. Reeves bought the entire Collar farm so Stubbs rented the Munsell house.
The Globe-Republican, January 27, 1898
Stubbs purchased the Munsell property in May of 1899.
Dodge City Reporter, May 19, 1899
By 1906, the Stubbs family offered rooms for rent in the large home. In 1916, Sam Sr. built three bungalows on the southwest end of the property. 608 W Spruce Street was occupied by J. W. Gilbert, 610 by son Sam Jr. and his wife, Lucille, and 612 by son Sidney and his wife, Agnes.
Dodge City Daily Globe, March 17, 1916
In January of 1924, Sam deeded the house at 612 W Spruce over to his son, Sidney. The other bungalows were still part of the larger Stubbs parcel at that time.
The 1926 Sanborn Fire Insurance Map shows a large frame dwelling at what was then 703 Fifth Avenue and the three bungalows on Spruce Street plus a large garage at the north property line.
Stubbs sold the property at Fifth and Spruce to R. B. Fegan of Junction City in January of 1926 and it was again used as a boarding house. The two remaining bungalows were included in the sale, although they were later parceled out and sold individually.
It appears things didn’t go well without a local owner and the house was empty by 1933.
Dodge City Daily Globe, August 22, 1933
By 1936, the house was owned by the Railroad Building and Loan Association of Newton and leased to Mrs. T. C. Gish, who sublet apartments in the house until approximately 1942.
William C and E May (Egbert) Miller bought the house at a tax sale around 1944. In August of 1945, May received approval to build a new location for her Neighborhood Pantry grocery store on the property but I’m not sure it was ever done.
Dodge City Daily Globe, July 26, 1945
At some point, May opened a care home in the large house. Her obituary stated that she operated the home for more than 30 years but the first mention I found of this establishment was in 1957.
Polk’s Dodge City (Ford County, Kansas) Directory, 1957
This photo shows a bit of detail at the entrance and the upstairs porch which had been enclosed on the right. To make up for it, outdoor access was added to the roof of the veranda.
Photo courtesy Kansas Heritage Center Photo Collection
William Miller died in July of 1961, leaving May to care for that enormous house as well as the residents of the nursing home.
Dodge City Daily Globe, Kansas Centennial Edition, July 1961
Throughout the 1960s, the condition of the home and grounds continued to deteriorate.
Photo courtesy Kansas Heritage Center Photo Collection
May retired and closed the nursing home in the early 1970s.
Photo courtesy Kansas Heritage Center Photo Collection
I’m not sure I would have described the house as “old-fashioned” but that’s just me.
Dodge City Daily Globe, January 15, 1973
This house was loved by many locals and it was very nearly saved. Unfortunately, there was a lot of termite damage and other issues which sealed its fate. This photo from August of 1974 shows the home being dismantled.
Photo courtesy Kansas Heritage Center Photo Collection
Fortunately, the house was taken down with care and historic fixtures and doors were removed for use elsewhere. The large double entry doors were installed in the old Rock Island depot, which is now a residence on Avenue A.
Dodge City Daily Globe, December 8, 1977
And here’s the corner of Fifth and Spruce now. Apologies for the lazy Google Street View image. I didn’t feel like braving the tropical humidity to photograph a parking lot. If you go back in time to 2012, though, you’ll be wondering what the heck happened to that nice sidewalk.
As for the 1916 newspaper article which sent me down this rabbit hole? It was written 28 years after the fire, likely influenced by the memories of a woman who heard stories about an incident that occurred when she was four years old. It may have been arson but I have found no hint of D. F. Owens being involved. I’ll get into the Owens backstory a bit more in a future post.
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