Casterline Seeds Then and Now

110 First Avenue

It’s startling when a building you’ve taken for granted your entire life suddenly gets wrecked. All it takes is a little Kansas weather to rip your complacency to shreds.

The lots at the southeast corner of First Avenue and Maple Street were vacant until the mid-1880s. The 1887 Sanborn Fire Insurance Map shows a small feed yard where First Avenue dead-ended at Maple. By 1892, the lots were again vacant.

The 1905 Sanborn shows a residential area with a frame dwelling and large barn at what was then 615-616 Maple Street. Street numbers were standardized around 1909 and this property was assigned 117 Maple Street.

Brothers William and Edison Rhinehart built a grain elevator just south of this corner in 1923. They also sold bulk coal, salt, oyster shells, and livestock feed.

The Dodge City Journal, November 8, 1923

Offices were added to the north end of the elevator in early 1924.

The Dodge City Journal, January 3, 1924

The 1926 Sanborn shows the Rhinehart Brothers Grain and Coal Co. with a rail siding through the south alley in addition to the siding which ran down the middle of Maple. A new three-story addition measuring approximately 20 x 14 feet was completed in 1927, which made room for the machinery needed to grind and mix feed.

In March of 1940, William and his wife, Nellie, were involved in a car accident about 12 miles south of Dodge City. Nellie was killed and the building was sold shortly thereafter.

The Hutchinson News, March 28, 1940

Fairmont Creamery expanded into the former Rhinehart building in the early 1940s, using it for their feed and hatchery departments. Additional concrete block buildings were added to the east along both rail sidings. By this time, the original elevator dock area was assigned a street address of 110 First Avenue.

Around 1957, Fairmont vacated the building and it became occupied by the (Floyd T) Harris & Sons Hatchery. Harris & Sons relocated to 14th and Beeson around 1960 and the Casterline era began.

Interestingly, this 1961 promo guide claimed the Casterline & Sons Seeds facility was the oldest grain elevator in Dodge City, which was still standing. That was false. The older Davidson elevator at Sycamore and Sunnyside was built in 1915.

“Howdy” Dodge City Greeter Guide, Kansas Centennial Edition, 1961

This aerial view looking southeast toward the river shows the Casterline facility southeast of the flour mill and directly east of Fairmont.

Photographer Unknown

Looking northwest, you can see the warehouse addition, which curved along the old rail siding at the south end.

Photographer Unknown

The Casterlines owned the building for many years after the elevator ceased operations. It became occupied by Southland Industrial Supply and then sat on the market for several years.

Although this listing is no longer active, you can still click through the photo gallery to see several interior and exterior photos. If you look at the Street View on Google Maps, you can scroll through images of the property going back to 2007.

The elevator was severely damaged by storms in the summer of 2023 and partial demolition was required. The office area has been gutted and work appears to be in progress for reuse.

This is how the property looks today:

I’m glad most of the building was saved and sincerely hope it is restored to a more historical appearance. Those windows are just too much for color TV.

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McCarty Hospital Then and Now

104 W Spruce Street

It feels weird to write about such a well-known building. What am I going to tell you that you don’t already know? For starters, McCarty Hospital was actually built by Nicholas Klaine in 1886 to serve as a hotel. You may remember that Klaine was a politician, judge, postmaster, and newspaper publisher. He also built the Cimarron Hotel, which looks very similar to the old hospital.

Construction of the three-story building with 30 rooms and a Mansard roof began in February of 1886.

The Dodge City Democrat, February 27, 1886

Sallie Markham Davis previously operated the Markham House at a different location on Front Street and Klaine’s new hotel would use the same name.

The Dodge City Times, March 18, 1886

Although a fundraising dinner for the Baptist Church was held at Markham House that April, it wasn’t fully completed and open for business until May of 1886.

The Sun, May 6, 1886

At the time, the lot to the north of the Courthouse was far removed from “all dust and noise.”

The Globe Live Stock Journal, May 18, 1886

It didn’t take long for the hotel to change hands. By September of 1886, William Edwards and Kate Walden were in charge of the Markham.

The Dodge City Times, September 9, 1886

William States took over operations in January of 1887 and renamed it the Central Hotel. States purchased all furniture and fixtures. He also operated a free shuttle to and from “all trains.”

The Dodge City Times, January 20, 1887

The 1887 Sanborn Fire Insurance Map shows the Central Hotel at what was then 303 Spruce Street. It lists the hotel as being two and a half stories rather than a full three due to the Mansard.

Management turnover continued with E. F. Raines taking charge in July of 1887. The Central Hotel changed hands numerous times and was refurbished by Mrs. J. Wells in late 1901.

The Dodge City Democrat, November 1, 1901

In May of 1905, Doctors Thomas and Claude McCarty announced plans to remodel the old Central Hotel into a hospital. They added a fourth floor by digging out a stone basement level and installed an elevator. Work was completed in August of 1905.

The Journal-Democrat, August 25, 1905

Although several doctors had offices which were referred to as hospitals, the McCarty building was the first proper hospital in Dodge City.

The Journal-Democrat, August 10, 1906

The 1911 Sanborn was the first to show the newly enlarged McCarty Hospital with its new street address of 104 W Spruce Street.

Postcard courtesy Ford County Historical Society E. E. Frank Collection

In May of 1922, the Sisters of St. Joseph began managing McCarty Hospital, which was renamed St. Anthony’s. After SSJ assumed operations of the former Thompson-Pine Hospital, it became known as St. Anthony’s North the old McCarty Hospital was called St. Anthony’s South.

The new St. Anthony’s Hospital at Central and Comanche opened on May 28, 1926 and the old McCarty Hospital was closed. However, Dr. Claude McCarty still had an office in the building in 1930.

Meanwhile, commercial buildings were constructed nearby. M. J. Williams operated his REO dealership at 701 Central Avenue by 1928. The former hospital was demolished around 1931 and Williams Motor Company expanded its garage into that space.

The Catholic Advance, February 21, 1931

The 1932 Sanborn shows the Williams Motor Co. building had been reconfigured to include a filling station on the corner.

W. T. Nicholson’s Super Service Station occupied the corner buildings by February of 1933.

The Catholic Advance, February 11, 1933

It’s kind of amazing that Dodge City had a 24-hour repair service in the 1930s.

Photo by Hoover Cott courtesy Ford County Historical Society

It seems strange that Nicholson claimed to occupy the busiest corner in town but we must remember that Central Avenue was also Highway 50 once upon a time.

Dodge City’s Diamond Jubilee Souvenir Program, 1947

By 1962, the Super Service building was vacant. That changed when the First Federal Savings and Loan Association of Dodge City grew out of its space on Gunsmoke Street. They constructed a modern building at Central and Spruce in 1965.

The Southwest Kansas Register, May 26, 1966

The institution’s name had changed to Landmark Federal Savings Association by February of 1985.

Sou’Wester, 1986

Then the 1990s happened and banking got weird. Multiple entities were created and merged out of existence. Landmark Bancshares, Inc. and MNB Bancshares, Inc. became Landmark Merger Company, which then became Landmark Bancorp around 2001. The institution is now known as Landmark National Bank and it continues to operate on the same corner.

Landmark’s drive-thru is in the spot where McCarty Hospital once stood. Here’s how it looks today:

I don’t want to make you feel old but the Landmark building is now eligible to be reconsidered as a contributing structure in the Dodge City Downtown Historic District. Time flies!

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Grove Hotel Then and Now

107 N Second Avenue

Usually, I choose to write about buildings when I stumble across old photos and wonder about their histories. In this case, I began researching an old hotel building and spent months trying to locate a photo to prove it existed.

Once upon a time, a small creek crossed Second Avenue between Maple and Pine Streets. The 1884 Sanborn Fire Insurance Map shows an empty lot directly south of this creek on the west side of Second Avenue.

It is believed that brothers James and William Weeks of Kinsley built four adjoining wood frame buildings on those lots south of the creek around 1885. The brothers were in the cattle business and built a successful lumber yard south of the railroad tracks.

B. Harris & Co. from Warrensburg, Missouri opened a hide business in the northernmost building in January of 1886.

The Dodge City Times, February 4, 1886

N. G. Healy & Co. bought the hide business in May of 1887, at which time Harris relocated to St. Louis. The 1887 Sanborn shows a row of wood frame structures from 208-211 2nd Avenue with only the hide house occupied. By 1892, all but the south part of the building was used for grain storage.

It is said that John Ridenour had the two south buildings dismantled and transported to his place northwest of town, where he used the lumber to construct a home. The 1899 Sanborn shows only the two north sections at 210-211 Second Avenue remained, which were being used as a boarding house.

Albert and Laura Fasig bought the boarding house and opened the Grove Hotel in May of 1902.

The Globe-Republican, May 15, 1902

The 1905 Sanborn shows the creek and bridge had disappeared. It is unclear why but I did find stories about wells drilled into the underflow which fed it, and that water could have simply been used up.

Albert Fasig died in January of 1910 and Laura advertised the 21-room Grove Hotel for sale that September. A couple of deals fell through and Robert and Zella Covalt of Emporia assumed operations by May of 1911. By this time, the block had been renumbered and the address was 107 Second Avenue.

The Dodge City Globe, May 18, 1911

The Covalts apparently had some miscommunications because Robert was arrested the following month after being accused of forging his wife’s name on a mortgage.

The Dodge City Globe, June 8, 1911

There were a lot of comings and goings. Zella divorced Robert, who had problems with alcohol, but it appears she still managed the hotel off and on even after putting it up for sale in July of 1914. Zella said she wanted to leave the area due to her health but the Grove remained on the market for quite some time.

In the meantime, Dodge City attempted to clean up its appearance. A “bullet scarred” sidewalk in front of the Grove was ordered removed in December of 1914. In reality, the holes in the iron sidewalk were from rivets rather than bullets. The metal had been repurposed from an old standpipe.

The Dodge City Daily Globe, December 31, 1914

W. H. Hampton (Bud’s father) bought the Grove Hotel in May of 1915 with plans for a complete renovation.

The Dodge City Daily Globe, May 10, 1915

This photo is a somewhat grainy copy of the original. It appears someone attempted to enhance the lettering above the entrance of the hotel.

Photo courtesy Ford County Historical Society Robert E Eagan Collection

The end of the Grove Hotel came in September of 1926 when the uninsured building was severely damaged in a fire.

The Southwest News, September 23, 1926

From that point on, the building was once again used for a variety of commercial businesses including the South Side Barber Shop.

The 1932 Sanborn shows a new rail siding had been installed across Second Avenue where the creek had once been.

The old hotel was home to a couple pool halls in the late 1930s and early ’40s. By 1947, it was occupied by Diehl’s Shoe Service and Coltran’s Upholstering. Clifford Coltran planned to restore some of the rooms in May of 1947 to celebrate Dodge City’s Diamond Jubilee. It is unclear whether his plans materialized.

The Advance Register, September 7, 1951

By 1953, Behee Mattress Company occupied the south part of the building. They were joined by Joe Gaut, owner of Gooch’s Shoe Shop by 1955. Gaut was the last tenant and the building was completely vacant after the flood of 1965. It was finally demolished in the 1970s.

This is how the former hotel site looks today:

The next time you’re driving south on Second Avenue, imagine how it looked before the flood completely altered the landscape.

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City Hall Then and Now

501 West Spruce Street

Until very recently, I hadn’t spent much time on this building because I thought I knew all about the history of Boot Hill and so did everyone else. I was wrong.

It’s pretty common knowledge that the Boot Hill Cemetery was in use from 1872 until 1879 but it wasn’t an official cemetery and the body count has been exaggerated many times over by enthusiastic storytellers. People of stature in the community were buried in the cemetery at Fort Dodge. Those who died suddenly (with their boots on) as well as people without money for proper burials were illegally laid to rest on Boot Hill.

Ford County Globe, April 23, 1878

The more conservative legends say there were some 36 cowboys and one woman buried on Boot Hill. Alice Chambers, who died of natural causes on May 5, 1878, is believed to have been the last person buried on Boot Hill.

As Dodge City grew, it became clear that something had to be done about the makeshift cemetery, which occupied prime real estate. Prairie Grove Cemetery was established in the 1400 block of Avenue C extending west toward Avenue B in 1878. In those days, that area was far removed from the city center.

Herman Fringer and Samuel Marshall bought the Boot Hill property in the Spring of 1878 with plans for development.

Dodge City Times, May 4, 1878

The approximately 20 remaining bodies were ordered to be removed from Boot Hill but that would be a really disgusting job during the summer months. In January of 1879, the City agreed to pay $100 to have the bodies moved to Prairie Grove with the provision that the work be completed within 60 days.

The original Third Ward School, built from 1879 to 1880, was a 30’ x 60’ two story brick building that stood at the top of the hill.

Photo courtesy Ford County Historical Society Studio de Lari Collection

According to Robert M Wright, the original school cost $6,300 to build and the roof was already leaking a year after completion. After five years, it was braced by rods. This poorly constructed building was condemned in 1889 and torn down to make way for its bigger and better replacement.

The second and more ornate Third Ward School was overcrowded almost as soon as it opened for the 1890-91 school year.

Photo courtesy Ford County Historical Society E. E. Frank Collection

For several years, the building was used as a high school and ward school combined. Dodge City didn’t build a dedicated high school until 1914. Overcrowding continued and Lincoln Elementary School on Cedar Street was built as a spacious and modern replacement. I’ve read in a few places the second Third Ward School was demolished in 1927 but it appears that didn’t occur until 1928, when Mann and Company began working on plans for a new City Hall.

The Hutchinson News, April 13, 1928

Dr. Oscar H Simpson, Dodge City’s dapper dentist, took up sculpting in his later years and used Joe Sughrue as a model for what would become the famous cowboy statue on Boot Hill. Most of you know that Sughrue nearly suffocated when his breathing straw was pinched during casting of the cowboy’s head. The statue was unveiled by Simpson’s daughter, Betty, on November 4, 1929.

There’s a lot of confusion about what all took place on this date during the Last Roundup. Ham Bell organized a giant five-section parade with four bands plus a drum corps. School was dismissed so kids could ride their decorated bicycles in the parade, which was led by the Dodge City Cowboy Band under direction of Otero Beeson.

During the celebration, the cowboy statue was dedicated and the cornerstone was laid for the new City Hall. Newspaper articles about the event were poorly written so people have taken them to mean the building was completed. In reality, construction was just beginning at that time.

It should be no surprise that Julian Parham’s company was awarded the building contract. Sadly, Parham died on December 31, 1929 after suffering severe burns in a gasoline stove explosion at a tourist camp in Oklahoma. This photo was taken before the roof was completed.

Photo courtesy Ford County Historical Society Studio de Lari Collection

Dodge City Fire Department found themselves in a bit of a pickle while waiting for their new home to be finished. The lease was up on the place they had rented for several years so they were forced to occupy the new building while it received finishing touches. DCPD had the same problem and moved in right behind them. The new City Hall was completed by mid-February of 1930.

A buffalo head carved out of limestone, which had been saved from the old City Hall building, was placed over the door seen in this photo.

Photo courtesy Ford County Historical Society Studio de Lari Collection

In June of 1932, Dr. Simpson’s statue of two steer heads was unveiled by his daughter, Betty, during the Kansas Lions Convention. It has been reported that the event was a Rotary Convention but contemporaneous articles clearly stated this was held by the Lions organization.

Are they oxen or steers? It turns out they are both. Before specialized breeding, oxen were simply regular old cattle put to work.

To add dramatic effect, Simpson also cast some cement death masks and cowboy boots which he partially buried near the statue at the top of Boot Hill. These “graves” were extremely popular with locals and visitors alike, so they were left in place for decades.

Photo courtesy Ford County Historical Society Troy Robinson Collection

The City Hall building served all departments until most moved to the old Methodist Church property in 1965. Left behind on the hill were the police and fire departments as well as the dog warden.

Photo courtesy Ford County Historical Society Studio de Lari Collection

The police department relocated to the new City Hall on First Avenue in 1971. Dodge City Fire Department’s new Station #1 was dedicated in May of 1990 and from that point, they only used the old building for storage and training.

The Dodge City Area Chamber of Commerce and the Convention and Visitors Bureau took up space in the former City Hall until the mid-1990s. After that, CASA occupied the space until around 2001. By that time, the massive building was in need of serious repairs.

In addition to dangerous asbestos which had to be removed, the tile roof had been leaking so there was a lot of interior damage. The building also had to be made accessible according to current building codes. The City nearly tore it down.

As most of you know, Hayes Kelman and crew had a great idea for the decaying building and renovations began in April of 2015. Boot Hill Distillery opened in 2016 and continues to operate in this beautiful, historic landmark.

I’m not sure if the building would have been saved if the City hadn’t wisely chosen to reallocate funds budgeted for demolition to the restoration process. It’s important to acknowledge the changing attitude toward our historic landmarks. I would also note that the statues on the property have undergone some pretty serious repairs and restorations, which were sorely needed.

Here are a few relatively recent exterior photos:

This building was neglected and disrespected for far too long. Its transformation is a shining example of what is possible. But don’t take my word for it! The tasting room is open Wednesday to Saturday from 3-11 pm and tours (yes, tours!) are available Fridays and Saturdays at 4 and 6 pm.

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Methodist Church Then and Now

First Avenue and Vine Street

In my story about Soule College, I explained that the Methodist Episcopal Church used funds from that sale to build a new church. The congregation had outgrown their building at what was then 804 First Avenue so they made plans for new construction right next door at the southwest corner of First and Vine.

The 1887 Sanborn Fire Insurance Map shows the old M. E. Church with a frame dwelling located on the lot to the north at 805 First. The only significant change to the property prior to the new construction was the street number standardization, which took place around 1909. These lots were assigned new addresses of 715 and 719 First Avenue at that time.

In July of 1912, the church board of trustees voted unanimously to construct a new church building with the cost not to exceed $25,000.

The Dodge City Daily Globe, July 27, 1912

The church’s parsonage on Avenue B was traded to Ira and Lottie Beck for the corner lot with the agreement that the Becks would have the house removed.

The Dodge City Kansas Journal, August 23, 1912

Kansas City architect William F Schrage was selected to design the new building, which included a total seating capacity of around 1,000.

The 70′ x 90′ building was to include a Sunday school room, 15 classrooms, and a pastor’s study. A gymnasium, social room, and heating plant would be located in the basement.

The Dodge City Daily Globe, September 6, 1912

The funds from the Soule College sale didn’t come close to paying for the building. A financial rally was held on October 20, 1912 with the goal of raising the remaining $15,000. Emery Beck removed the house from the corner lot to a new spot on his farm, allowing excavation by Sam Bagley to begin in November. The church planned to use lumber from their old building to construct a parsonage once the new building was occupied.

After slight alterations to the plans, the construction contract was awarded to Julian Parham and L. J. Upp with a completion deadline of September 1, 1913.

The Dodge City Daily Globe, December 9, 1912

Stained glass costing around $500 was ordered from the Kansas City Art Glass Company in January of 1913. Circular pews and other seating were provided by the American Seating Company of Grand Rapids, Michigan. Misner Plumbing Company submitted the winning bid for the heating system at $1,400.

The Dodge City Kansas Journal, January 17, 1913

Brickwork began in February of 1913 but progress was slow due to poor weather conditions. Windows and flooring were installed in July. Fundraising efforts were ongoing throughout construction.

Although it wasn’t completely finished, the first service was held in the new church building on August 31, 1913. The building was used for various daytime meetings and events but nothing could be scheduled during the evenings because lights hadn’t yet been installed.

October 19, 1913 had been the target date for dedicating the new church building. However, the church board decided to wait until the building debt was nearly repaid. The ceremony finally took place on May 31, 1914 without a pipe organ. Due to the flood of donations at the dedication, a $3,000 Pilcher pipe organ was ordered at once. The organ was officially unveiled during a celebratory concert on December 29, 1914.

The Dodge City Daily Globe, December 30, 1914

In 1915, the new frame parsonage was built on the site of the old church for approximately $3,300.

The 1918 Sanborn was the first to show the new building at 719 First with the new parsonage and a detached garage next door to the south.

In August of 1928, contracts were awarded for a new Sunday school and office building to be constructed along the alley at the back of the lots. Once again, Julian Parham was the builder and the expected cost was $65,000.

The Hutchinson News, August 10, 1928

The church was still growing and needed additional space. A new parsonage was built around 1954, which was attached to the front of the office. Shown here is the new parsonage to the left of the church.

Photographer Unknown

This photo shows a bit more detail of the beautiful church building.

Photographer Unknown

To the right in this photo, you can see the back side of the education building with the church connected at the north end. Both had walk-out basements, making them appear to be three stories tall.

Photo courtesy Ford County Historical Society Studio de Lari Collection

The church was still growing, however, so they built a new facility in 1964. The property on First Avenue was sold to the City of Dodge City for use as the new City Hall and police station. Those cruisers had to be parked somewhere so the beautiful church was demolished and replaced with a parking lot. Because of course it was.

Around 1990, the City built the new police station across the street from the old church and City Hall moved to the old Southwest Clinic. Since that time, the former parsonage and education building have housed all sorts of businesses from attorneys to accountants to medical offices. I can’t remember the last time I saw the parking lot full.

These photos were taken about a year ago.

I’m not a zoning reform absolutist but we have a lot of parking lots, folks. We also have a multilevel parking garage that is falling into ruin.

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Hulpieu-Miller Then and Now

208-210 W Chestnut St/Wyatt Earp Blvd

This building appears to have split personalities. If you didn’t know better, you would swear there’s no way the Wyatt Earp and Gunsmoke sides are connected. The Gunsmoke entrance is beautiful, while the appearance of the Wyatt Earp side has rendered the building a noncontributing structure in the Dodge City Downtown Historic District. How did that happen?

The 1884 Sanborn Fire Insurance Map shows frame dwellings in this block. The homes on Walnut were spared from the infamous fires but those along Chestnut were destroyed. The 1887 Sanborn shows Dodge City Electric Light and Steam Heating Co. at what was then 210 Walnut Street. There was an empty lot at the former 302 Chestnut Street.

After the electric company moved, their old building was occupied by a plumbing business. The 1905 Sanborn shows the old electric building was to be rebuilt.

I wrote a bit about the drama between undertaker Charles Hulpieu and his brother-in-law, E. S. Adam, in a previous post. Hulpieu was involved in the Home Furnishing Company from its inception in 1904. This business moved from a building Carrie Bainbridge owned across the street at 205 West Chestnut in early 1909. Bainbridge and her son, Robert Rath, were partners in Home Furnishing Co. for a while but Charles Hulpieu and John F Miller operated the business.

The Hutchinson Daily Gazette, April 14, 1910

The 1911 Sanborn shows the new furniture and undertaking building with renumbered blocks at 209-211 Walnut Street and 208-210 West Chestnut Street. An elevator was situated at the northeast corner of the building. The first floor had iron posts with wood posts upstairs. Presumably, the exterior appearance was the same on both the north and south sides.

Rath and Bainbridge sold their half interest in the business to Hulpieu and Miller in April of 1914. This was when Joe Hulpieu became a partner.

Etrick’s Directory of Ford County 1920

John Miller died in October of 1923 and his son, Louis, took his place as a junior partner. By the 1930s, the business had begun testing out the Hulpieu-Miller name alongside Home Furnishing Co.

Dodge City Daily Globe, October 20, 1945

Charles Hulpieu died on November 21, 1946 and his son C. Frederic “Buss” Hulpieu took his place in the business. Hulpieu-Miller, Inc. was formed on November 23, 1946 with registered agent Donald D Martin. Joe Hulpieu had directed his attention to the funeral home. In those days, the main entrance was on Walnut Street. By 1953, Louis Miller was President and Buss served as Vice-President and Secretary.

These photos were taken on the Chestnut side during a parade in 1954. It is unclear whether this brick exterior was original. I would lean toward it being rebricked at some point since it’s pretty plain. The windows were definitely not original.

I have no explanation for the exterior on the Gunsmoke side, but this style was common in the 1920s and ’30s.

Photo courtesy Ford County Historical Society Studio de Lari Collection

Louis F Miller died in July of 1959 and his widow, Janet (Hellwarth) Miller, took his place as President of Hulpieu-Miller. Buss was still the Vice-President with Dwight Johnson Secretary/Treasurer and the store was managed by Don Martin.

Dodge City Daily Globe, Kansas Centennial Edition, July 1961

By 1962, Buss Hulpieu had exited the business and was working for West America Securities. Hulpieu-Miller was sold to Don Martin and Dennis Norris by 1967.

Hulpieu-Miller Interiors, Inc. was formed on February 23, 1976. Unfortunately, the building fell prey to the metal slipcover epidemic. During this time, the main entrance was on the Wyatt Earp side.

Photo by Troy Robinson

The store moved to Military Plaza in 1980 and the building was purchased by Fidelity State Bank. Ann Frigon and Architectural Accents occupied space at 208 W Wyatt Earp and the rest was bank territory. That spot is currently home to the Community Foundation of Southwest Kansas.

This is how the former furniture store looks today:

Obviously, Fidelity takes care of the building so I’m not going to complain. It would be great if we could see some original elements but if I had to choose, I’d rather see it well-maintained.

If you like what you see, be sure to subscribe (way at the bottom of the post on mobile devices) to receive an email each time a new post is published and share on social media. You can also support my work by donating below. This content is 100% funded by history fanatics such as yourself. Thanks for reading!

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Nevins House Then and Now

700 Fifth Avenue

This house gives me so much anxiety, I just can’t even tell you. Driving past it has made me unhappy for as long as I can remember. As my therapist would say, let’s explore that.

Burt C Jones worked for the Santa Fe Railroad. He and his wife, Etta, acquired several rental properties as Burt made his way up through the ranks. They lived in a house on the south side of Spruce Street a few lots west of the Third Ward School before acquiring the empty lot at the northeast corner of Fifth and Spruce.

Excavation began in January of 1908 for a nine-room residence on what was called the West Hill. Newspapers reported the home cost $3,500 to build and the Joneses moved in that May.

This photo was taken from the Third Ward School in 1909 looking northwest. It’s about half the size of the house we’re accustomed to seeing and there was originally a garage at the back of the lot.

Photo courtesy Ford County Historical Society Studio de Lari Collection

In May of 1911, the Joneses sold the house to J. E. and Mary Wood for $5,000 but they only owned it for a short time. That August, Ozro N and Martha Nevins of Ford bought the property for $4,500. Wood bought the D. W. Sturgeon livery stable around that time so that could explain why they sold the house so quickly and for a loss.

Because the West Hill neighborhood was in the suburbs, the 1926 Sanborn Fire Insurance Map was the first to include this property. It shows the home configured as seen in the 1909 photo.

Mrs. Nevins died in 1923 and Mr. Nevins followed in 1930. Sometime between 1926 and 1932, the house was converted into apartments and a large new addition was added to the east end.

The 1932 Sanborn shows the size of the house had nearly doubled. Eulalia Nevins lived in the new addition at 512 W Spruce Street for many years. A third apartment was later added to the map at 514 W Spruce and its door was at the south end of the front porch.

Eulalia’s nephew, Art Nevins, Jr., took up residence in the apartment at 700 Fifth Avenue in the mid-1950s and later moved into the unit next to hers. Eulalia died in March of 1961 and the house has changed hands many times since.

My grandfather bought the house in the 1980s to use as a pottery studio. By that time, it was in terrible shape. Previous tenants had left all sorts of broken furniture and random junk all over the property. The exterior was bad but the interior was absolute chaos. Just this giant, decaying, ramshackle place. We were all relieved when he sold it a few years later.

This is how the Nevins House looks today.

This house looks so much better than it did when I was a child. It’s kind of nice to see some original details peeking out from under the vinyl siding. This historic beauty still has a chance.

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Walt Hall Then and Now

Kansas Soldiers’ Home, Fort Dodge, Kansas

People who think history stopped with the Old West frustrate me to no end. Also, people who point out old buildings have asbestos. “This Old House” premiered in 1979 so we all know about asbestos!

By now, you’re probably all aware that the State of Kansas has included funds for the demolition of Walt Hall in their draft budget for Fiscal Year 2025. If you haven’t seen the document in question, it’s available online at https://kslegislature.org/li/b2023_24/committees/ctte_jt_bldg_constr_1/documents/testimony/20240125_02.pdf

Of note, “The Governor recommends $3.5 million, including $201,980 SGF, for capital improvements for FY 2025. This is an SIBF increase of $600,000, or 18.3 percent, above the agency’s FY 2025 request. The increase is for the demolition of the Junior Officers Quarters and Walt Hall at the KSH on Fort Dodge.”

A committee is working on the Junior Officers Quarters, which is being addressed separately so I’m focusing on Walt Hall. This is the old hospital on the hill which everyone asks about. The general consensus is that people love it, they want it saved, but they don’t really know much about it.

The Kansas Soldiers’ Home outgrew its first permanent hospital located in what is now known as the Pershing Barracks and the State made plans for a larger facility. State Architect Charles D Cuthbert of Cuthbert and Sons designed the $120,000 building featuring two 100-foot wings with a total of 34 beds. Contracts were awarded in October of 1927 to businesses in Oberlin, Hays, and Fort Scott.

The new hospital was dedicated in August of 1928. Local newspapers reported more than 1,000 celebrants in attendance.

This photo from a retrospective article in the Dodge City Daily Globe was taken shortly after the hospital was completed. You can see the landscaping hadn’t even been finished and the building originally had a tile roof. The style is listed as Italian Renaissance on the Kansas Historical Society survey.

Dodge City Daily Globe, August 14, 1972

In the early days, the hospital doctor lived upstairs. You can see the large front porch was screened in so patients could enjoy the fresh air.

Photo courtesy Ford County Historical Society Photo Collection

This hospital was also outgrown and it was converted to a dormitory after Halsey Hall was dedicated in 1970. This dormitory was named Walt Hall in January of 1971 after General Lewis “Big Lew” Walt, who retired the following month. General Walt was born in Wabaunsee County, Kansas in 1913. Big Lew appeared on the cover of Life in May of 1967. He became Assistant Commandant of the Marine Corps in 1968 and was buried at Quantico National Cemetery in 1989.

Walt Hall was at full capacity as late as 1979. At some point, the tile roof was replaced with asphalt shingles and the top story was closed by the fire marshal due to code issues. Occupancy dwindled throughout the 1980s, with only 15 residents by December of 1989. Walt Hall finally closed in January of 1990 and has been vacant ever since.

I took these photos in December of 2021. It’s not great but I’ve seen worse.

I understand why history buffs focus on the buildings in existence when Fort Dodge was in operation. In my opinion, the history of the Kansas Soldiers’ Home is equally deserving of our care and concern.

To every person who still laments the destruction of Downtown Dodge City during Urban Renewal, I say this: Walt Hall is older today than the buildings on Front Street were in 1970.

Walt Hall still has a lot of life left in it. There are avenues for restoration which do not require an additional tax burden on the residents of Ford County or an additional hassle for the Kansas Commission on Veterans’ Affairs. Tell your elected officials to stop the demolition of Walt Hall.

If you like what you see, be sure to subscribe (way at the bottom of the post on mobile devices) to receive an email each time a new post is published and share on social media. You can also support my work by donating below. This content is 100% funded by history fanatics such as yourself. Thanks for reading!

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Oriel Block Then and Now

112-114 Front Street

Many times, I choose to write about buildings simply because I have questions. I knew nothing about the Oriel Block, including the fact that it was called the Oriel Block. The only photos I had seen showed a sad state of affairs and my curiosity got the best of me. Boy, did I learn a thing or two.

The 1884 Sanborn Fire Insurance Map shows a block full of wood frame businesses with one brick saloon. There was no standardization and the buildings were of all shapes and sizes. Lot numbers had no meaning.

In December of 1885, R. W. Evans sold a half-interest in his lots east of the bank on Front Street between First and Railroad/Central Avenues to R. J. Hardesty. Due to the outbreak of devastating fires, Dodge City mandated brick buildings in the business district. The duo planned to build in the spring of 1886.

In May of 1886, the architectural firm of Weston and Trost announced Col. R. J. Hardesty and R. W. Evans were building the Oriel Block. The Dodge City Democrat reported “…in each front second story will be a large oriel window with polished plate glass. The fronts will be recessed back in 10 feet. This block is christened by the architects the Oriel Block. Approximate cost $15,000.”

The 1887 Sanborn shows the Oriel Block under construction at what was then 411-412 Front Street and 327-328 Chestnut Street. Construction was slow because so many structures had to be rebuilt and it was finally completed on November 4, 1887.

L. T. Peck’s real estate office was on the Front Street side.

Dodge City Weekly Democrat, December 10, 1887

The office of the A. K. & C. Railroad had moved into the southeast room on the second floor by December 15, 1887. By March of 1888, Willett, Hardesty, and Evans had moved into a suite of offices upstairs on the north end. I. M. Jennings also moved a billiard hall into the building that April.

Dodge City Weekly Democrat, April 7, 1888

A lunch counter occupied the basement.

Dodge City Weekly Democrat, September 8, 1888

A local representative for the Bureau of (Veterans’) Pensions also took an office in the Oriel Block.

The Dodge City Times, October 11, 1888

Walter Locke opened a feed and vegetable house there in November of 1888.

The Dodge City Times, November 22, 1888

O. P. Jenkins and Sons signed a five-year lease on the Oriel Block in November of 1891 intending to remodel the building into a hotel. The Hotel Hardesty opened the following month.

The Globe-Republican, December 10, 1891

By December 26, it was decided that Oriel Hotel was a better name for the establishment.

True to form in the hotel business, the Oriel Hotel closure announcement was made on May 9, 1892. Walter Locke conducted a chattel mortgage sale on the furnishings on May 21.

The Globe-Republican, May 16, 1892

At that point, only the billiards hall was operational in the west storefront. Arthur Ashley of Garden City announced in December of 1892 he would be reopening the hotel on January 1, 1893. He planned to add a large dining room on the Chestnut side, which was possibly operated by Maggie Stark.

The Dodge City Democrat, April 15, 1893

Mrs. M. E. Durand leased the dining room in the building in November of 1893. Mrs. James Wells also leased “upper floors” and planned to let rooms to lodgers.

The Globe-Republican, January 5, 1894

Mr. and Mrs. J. Q. Adams took over operations of the Oriel Hotel in September of 1894. That November, T. L. “Buff” Callahan was excited over election returns and shot holes in the ceiling. No one was injured.

The Ford County Leader, November 9, 1894

There was a lot of turnover and the hotel was purchased by Mr. J. H. Leshure of Larned in December of 1895.

The Ford County Leader, July 31, 1896

Hank Young leased the hotel dining room and lunch counter in September of 1896 but then it was reported he succeeded Leshure as proprietor of the hotel itself.

The Dodge City Democrat, September 19, 1896

Newspapers reported in February of 1897 that Mr. and Mrs. A. H. Boyd of Larned would soon take charge of the Oriel. And this is how the Dodge House 2.0 became a thing.

The Globe-Republican, February 25, 1897

B. F. Fletcher opened the Silver Gloss Hand Laundry in the west end of the basement of the Oriel Block in July of 1897. R. W. Evans occupied rooms on the Chestnut side from time to time. Fletcher moved his laundry out of the Oriel in April of 1898 and the Newkirk Bennett “joint” took its place in the basement. Even Dodge City’s lovable scoundrel, Ben Hodges, had a room at the Dodge House.

The Dodge City Democrat, April 6, 1900

The Boyds owned hotels in several Kansas towns and were rarely in the same location at once. Fred W Boyd managed the Dodge House at least by May of 1900, at which time the entire hotel was remodeled to catch the busy summer season. In July of 1903, Boyd purchased the Elgin Hotel in Marion and relocated there in December. Ernest Hendricks and Mrs. Morrow reopened the Dodge House later that month.

D. C. “Clem” Moore bought the Dodge House in January of 1905. He had the dining room and kitchen converted back into rooms since the place was surrounded by eating establishments. The newly renovated Dodge Rooming House opened for business that April.

The Globe-Republican, April 20, 1905

J. S. Elliott bought the Dodge Rooming House in May of 1908. Mr. and Mrs. A. C. Faulkner renovated the west storefront into the Electric Theatre, which opened in March of 1909. The street numbers were standardized around that time. The theater was at 115 W Chestnut and the Dodge Rooming House was at 112 Front Street.

Mr. and Mrs. John Hughett bought the Dodge Rooming House in February of 1909.

The Daily Clarion, April 26, 1909

By early 1912, F. A. Etrick was associated with the Electric Theater. The name was changed to the Dreamland in December of that year.

The Dodge City Daily Globe, December 10, 1912

The Submarine Grocery opened in the basement just in time for Thanksgiving in November of 1916.

Dodge City Daily Globe, November 28, 1916

This photo was taken at Central and Chestnut looking west around 1917. You can see the ornate cornices along the second floor of the Oriel Block on the left but only the Front Street side had oriel windows.

Photographer Unknown

Etrick reopened the remodeled Dreamland on December 18, 1916.

Dodge City Daily Globe, December 18, 1916

By January of 1917, C. A. Wilhite’s Denver Coffee House was serving meals in the basement at 114 Front Street.

Dodge City Daily Journal, January 19, 1917

L. C. B. Martin operated a shine parlor in the east room located at 112 Front.

Dodge City Daily Journal, March 7, 1917

A gasoline stove explosion destroyed the coffee house and most of the theater on March 27, 1917. No injuries were reported.

Dodge City Daily Globe, March 27, 1917

Denver Lunch moved to the Great Western Hotel in April of 1917 and the theater reopened later that year.

The Dreamland Theater closed in mid-1918 and the building was renovated into office space for the Midland Light and Ice Company, which occupied the entire basement and about 3/4 of the main floor with access on Chestnut.

Dodge City Daily Globe, November 18, 1918

By 1921, the east room on Chestnut was occupied by the tire shop of C. M. Key and Son.

The Dodge City Journal, March 31, 1921

The Army & Navy Store opened at 112 Front Street in January of 1922 but the name was quickly shortened to The Army Store.

The Dodge City Journal, January 5, 1922

The building was still in pretty good shape when this photo of Front Street was taken in 1925.

Photographer Unknown

The neighborhood was looking a bit shopworn by the time this photo was taken but at least the oriel windows were still in place.

Photographer Unknown

The 1930s ushered in the tavern and billiards era. Aside from the Southwest Furniture Company taking up 113 W Chestnut and a brief stay for Merrick’s Cafe to the west, it was all beer parlors and pool halls until the 1950s.

At some point, the rooming house was remodeled into apartments. By 1953, Newkirk’s Electric Appliances had moved into the old furniture store.

Polk’s Dodge City (Ford County, Kans.) Directory 1953

Ritz Sandwich Shop was located at 115 W Chestnut and behind it was the Front Street Tavern. There were only a couple residents in the upstairs apartments.

By 1957, the building was looking rough. The detailed cornices and oriel windows had been removed in favor of utilitarian brick.

Photo courtesy Ford County Historical Society Studio de Lari Collection

Around 1957, Isaac Sanchez had the Duck Inn Tavern at 114 Front Street. The Shrine Club was above the sandwich shop, which was vacant by then. By 1959, Chester Wendler had opened Curley’s Last Chance Tavern in the old appliance store. Sanchez changed the name of his bar from the Duck Inn to the Cactus Club by 1962 and then to The Spot by 1967.

I won’t rehash the story of Dodge City’s Urban Renewal project but the Oriel Block was demolished soon after these photos were taken. You can see the building still had decorative accents around its windows on the Wyatt Earp Boulevard side but the beautiful cornices were long gone.

Photo courtesy Marin Lix

Front Street was a disaster.

Photo courtesy Marin Lix

The only trace of the building’s auspicious beginnings was the arched stone panel above the center staircase entry indicating the Oriel Block was constructed in 1887.

Photo by Joleen Fromm

Here’s a recent image from Google Street View of the missing block.

It’s sad to see how many property owners defer maintenance until a building isn’t worth saving. It usually starts with the roof and goes downhill from there. You’d think we would learn how that routine actually adds costs, but alas…the cycle continues.

If you like what you see, be sure to subscribe (way at the bottom of the post on mobile devices) to receive an email each time a new post is published and share on social media. You can also support my work by donating below. This content is 100% funded by history fanatics such as yourself. Thanks for reading!

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McLellan’s Then and Now

700 N Second Avenue

Do you ever look at a building and wonder why it looks the way it does? Same! And in case you haven’t noticed, the Modern Movement isn’t my cup of tea. So, imagine my surprise when I discovered this building is a surviving victim of Urban Renewal.

The lot at the northeast corner of Second Avenue and Spruce Street was empty until the Baptist Church was built there in the 1890s. The 1899 Sanborn Fire Insurance Map shows the Baptist Church on that corner with a couple frame dwellings to the east along Spruce.

The church lot plus the two lots at the east end of the property were sold to Harry A Hart in the Summer of 1929 and the church was moved off-site. The First Baptist congregation met in the Junior High Auditorium until their building at 1310 N Second Avenue was ready.

Plans were announced in September of 1930 for a nine-story, 128-room hotel on this corner. The hotel entrance would be on Spruce with storefronts along Second.

The Dodge City Journal, September 25, 1930

Clearly, those ambitious plans never materialized. Instead, the 1932 Sanborn shows a tiny structure positioned diagonally on that corner.

In the 1930s, 700 Second Avenue was home to Coney Island Cafe, not to be confused with the Coney Island Lunch, which was located at 201 Second Avenue. By the end of 1939, the building was vacant.

The McLellan Stores Company was founded by William McLellan in 1917. McLellan’s had moved into Kansas by 1921 with a discount store model similar to Duckwall’s. A new McLellan’s location at Second and Spruce was operational by the Spring of 1942.

In 1958, the McLellan Stores Company merged with McCrory Stores and the new McCrory-McLellan Stores Corporation continued operating in Kansas. Aside from heavy management turnover, the store maintained a consistent presence in Dodge City until the mid-1960s. Many stores closed around this time and the Dodge location was vacant by 1967.

By now, you may be wondering what this has to do with Urban Renewal. Scores of business owners were forced to decide whether to relocate or cease operations when the decision was made to destroy downtown. Occupying the old Post Office at Second and Wyatt Earp was Sam’s Shoe Store.

Photo by Joleen Fromm

Sam Allen chose to relocate. He settled on the vacant building a couple blocks north at Second and Spruce. The old McLellan’s store was remodeled extensively, with the windows along Spruce infilled with brick. The original façade was replaced with a rounded metal slipcover. When the renovation was completed, Sam’s Shoe Store occupied the south storefront with House of Fabrics on the north side. By 1980, chiropodist Glenn A Shipe had also moved into the building.

Photo courtesy Ford County Historical Society Troy Robinson Collection

After Sam’s retirement, sons Jim and Virgil Allen assumed management of the store, incorporating in 1984. Sam’s Shoe Store, Inc. was dissolved on February 24, 2014.

Since Sam’s closed, the building has had a series of tenants with confusing signage on the windows, which are often dark. That rounded slipcover remains.

These photos have been taken over the past couple years:

Everyone loved Sam’s so I’m trying to be gentle here. That metal slipcover needs to be drop-kicked off the edge of the Earth. Since the renovated exterior has passed the 50-year mark, it is eligible to be reassessed as a contributing structure in the Downtown Historic District. That sounds wonderful when you think about grant opportunities, but it also means that slipcover could be here to stay.

If you like what you see, be sure to subscribe (way at the bottom of the post on mobile devices) to receive an email each time a new post is published and share on social media. You can also support my work by donating below. This content is 100% funded by history fanatics such as yourself. Thanks for reading!

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